The history of CHAUMET Paris (EST. 1780) is the heaviest of all luxury brands in the world.
From a royal jeweler during the Napoleonic era to a family of artisanal jewelers, CHAUMET has developed a unique “naturalistic” jewelry language through two and a half centuries of aesthetics and craftsmanship. These elements are evident in its high jewelry collections.
What is the significance of high jewelry to the CHAUMET brand today, and how can CHAUMET deliver its rich history to young consumers through high jewelery?
In the recent Luxe.CO exclusive interview with CHAUMET CEO Jean-Marc Mansvelt, Mansvelt shared how to drive a fine jewelry brand that spans nearly two and a half centuries, how to define the connection between jewelry creation and the times, as well as his insights on the Chinese fine jewelry consumer market.
- “We do not reproduce the past or simply be a ‘storytelling’ brand”
- “CHAUMET jewelry is more like a miracle”
- “Chinese customers are increasingly interested in designs that use colorful, high-quality stones”
- “Nature is essential, both as a source of creation and as a source of raw materials”
Jean-Marc Mansvelt, Chief Executive Officer of CHAUMET
Jean-Marc Mansvelt graduated from the Ecole Supérieure de Commerce in Paris in 1987 and joined L’Oréal the following year, where he was in charge of marketing and skincare product development for various brands. He joined LVMH in 2004 as marketing director for Louis Vuitton’s leather goods division, where he created the fragrance business, the marketing information department, the accessories department and was in charge of Louis Vuitton’s stationery collection. He was responsible for the creation and launch of the Louis Vuitton stationery line “Writing Universe”. After ten years at Louis Vuitton, he became CEO of CHAUMET in 2015.
“We do not reproduce the past or simply be a ‘storytelling’ brand”
All of CHAUMET’s high jewelry creations come from the brand’s headquarters, the high jewelry atelier at 12 Place Vendôme in Paris. CHAUMET always insists on design to give the gemstone a soul, rather than simply chasing the luxury of materials. All jewelry creations, including high jewelry, start with a design before finding the right gemstone. The brand still keep a collection of over 65,000 manuscripts since its creation.
In addition, CHAUMET has always adhered to the “talent, not blood” method of master and apprenticeship to pass on the craftsmanship.
Today, the CHAUMET Fine Jewelry workshop is led by Benoît Verhulle, the brand’s 13th workshop director. He has held the position since 2017. Verhulle describes his daily work as follows: “My role is to accompany the jewelry-making team in the creation of a number of exquisite pieces. To do this, I assess the time needed to complete these pieces and the raw materials required, based on the drawings from the creative studio, and then select the jewelry artisans and give the different pieces to different artisans.”
CHAUMET’s high jewelry workshop at 12 Place Vendôme, Paris
Luxe.CO: How does CHAUMET understand the connection between the creation of Haute Joaillerie and the times? What are the elements that set CHAUMET apart from other high jewelry brands?
Jean-Marc Mansvelt: In fact, all the work is based on this tension between tradition, eternity, the great Style of the Maison and this contemporaneity which makes the Maison living in its time, in its era, attached to seduce the clients of the present time, maintaining a balance between being faithful to its DNA and constantly pushing itself.
We do not reproduce the past; the backgrounds of drawings or photos inspire us, always reminding us of the CHAUMET Style, but it is to better free ourselves from it and respond to the taste of the day.
So how do we distinguish ourselves from the other Maison? Quite simply by being ourselves, by remaining faithful to what makes CHAUMET so different from others, through its style and themes, its choice of stones and its signature techniques.
Luxe.CO: What kind of communication and interaction do you think can impress the consumers of jewelry brands most today?
Jean-Marc Mansvelt: CHAUMET is fortunate to address a very broad public, between its more exclusive High Jewellery collections of course, but also to a younger public with a collection such as Bee My Love, or to all those young couples who want to crown their love with the Maison by essence of bridal since the extraordinary love story between Emperor Napoleon and Empress Josephine.
To reach all these audiences, to speak to them, we obviously have to use today’s tools and means, in particular to tell all these dimensions and stories that are so unique and so aspirational through social networks, publications, events and exhibitions, for example. Each time, we face the narrative to show CHAUMET as widely as possible.
Luxe.CO: What kind of jewelry brands do the younger generation of consumers prefer? What should a fine jewelry brand focus on when communicating with young consumers?
Jean-Marc Mansvelt: My first impression is that Generation Z is sensitive to the brand’s authenticity. Therefore, CHAUMET’s strategy is not to create something out of nothing, but to show the essence of what is inside and to keep its own style; CHAUMET will maintain its classic and timeless character, while constantly reinventing itself, without inventing or simply being a “storytelling” brand.
As a case in point, when CHAUMET organized the “Tiara Dream” exhibition, we succeeded not only in telling the history and cultural heritage of the Maison of CHAUMET, but also in conveying this content through modern immersive digital technology, highlighting the contemporary and modern side of CHAUMET. These approaches are quite in line with the tastes and expectations of this generation.
Luxe.CO: What opportunities and challenges do you think the global high jewelry industry is facing now?
Jean-Marc Mansvelt: The opportunity is obvious: High Jewellery has more and more its place in the world of artistic creation; it is no longer considered a minor art. The increasing number of auctions with skyrocketing results is proof of this.
More and more people are becoming connoisseurs, more and more they consider it to be an object of creation, an ultimate example of know-how, but also a clear investment object that can pass on to future generations, especially when it is signed by a great and prestigious Maison with an incredible history, as CHAUMET can be more than any other.
Faced with this growing demand and a greater number of customers, the different Maisons in this world of High Jewellery must keep their highest standards to create only the most beautiful even if the offer is much lower than the demand. In any case, one of the challenges is to have workshops and craftsmen who are at the right level; it takes 10 to 15 years to train a jeweller in a High Jewellery workshop…
CHAUMET Archives
CHAUMET’s archival designs from 1920 to 1940
“CHAUMET jewelry is more like a miracle than an ‘in your face’ piece”
Luxe.CO: How does working at CHAUMET differ from your previous work at Louis Vuitton? How can your previous work experience help you lead CHAUMET?
Jean-Marc Mansvelt: Obviously, jewelry is a completely different world. My greatest feeling is that CHAUMET is a brand that provides drive and passion to all its members. It creates and innovates while remaining true to its heritage, with the desire to pass on its skills throughout.
The previous moments and experiences, without knowing it, prepared me, I believe, to take over the management of CHAUMET. I have learned to be demanding, I have understood the importance of respecting a Maison in its deepest truth, I have also and above all had the opportunity to work with some exceptional personalities who have given me a lot, who have trained me.
Today, I regularly ask myself if I am up to the task, if they would be proud of the work accomplished at CHAUMET. And knowing what I owe them also obliges me to try to give to the younger ones with, I hope, the same high standards and the same generosity. Isn’t this the very essence of transmission?
Luxe.CO: How do you define CHAUMET? What development strategies have you formulated for the Maison since you became the CEO of CHAUMET in 2015?
Jean-Marc Mansvelt: CHAUMET has historically had a unique position: it is the Maison of clients who want to wear a creation that marks them out, distinguishes them…they want to wear what not everyone else wears, a rare object, but at the same time rich in meaning and culture. This is what explains CHAUMET’s very unique style from the outset, a style that is both delicate and very powerful, a style that does not accumulate or “flaunt”, but rather is subtle, light and minimalist, more like a miracle than an “in your face” piece.
This choice of distinction, which means that CHAUMET is not worn by everyone, that CHAUMET is not present everywhere, is what I really wanted to put back at the center of our journey since 2015. And I believe that clients are following us, especially in China, at least those who are attached to this way of standing out with “grace and character”.
Luxe.CO: What is the biggest challenge you face in leading a 242-year-old fine jewelry Maison?
Jean-Marc Mansvelt: Balance is very important …… CHAUMET must stay true to its jewelry-making tradition and the timeless classic style, remaining true to its roots in an authentic and unique way, but also reinventing itself and continuing to progress to keep up with the times. It is this balance between opposites and the need for constant innovation that drives CHAUMET forward, sustaining its creativity and allowing us to continue.
“Chinese customers are increasingly interested in designs that use colorful, high-quality stones”
Although CHAUMET has a longer history than fine jewelry brands such as Cartier, Tiffany, and Bulgari, CHAUMET was the last to enter the mainland Chinese market.
Cartier entered China in 1992 and was the first fine jewelry brand to enter the mainland market, followed by Tiffany and Bulgari in 2001 and 2003 respectively.
In 2007, CHAUMET officially entered the Chinese mainland market. After fifteen years of development, CHAUMET gradually expands its business territory in mainland China. According to the brand’s official website, there are currently 26 CHAUMET boutiques in mainland China.
At the same time, facing the highly developed digital market of China, CHAUMET also begins to explore and experiment in related fields with initiative.
In 2015, CHAUMET started to explore digital innovation to bring better services and new experiences to young users and actively interact with them; in 2016, CHAUMET launched H5 mini-game “Hack your phone for 2 minutes, do you want to play?”; in 2017, CHAUMET launched the online VR movie “All the past is just the beginning”; in 2018, CHAUMET launched H5 game “‘Immersive Jewelry Matching Experience’, find your ‘Queen Style'”.
In 2019, CHAUMET launched the “CHAUMET official limited time store” on WeChat, officially testing the water in online sales. In May 2020, CHAUMET launched the first full collection online platform worldwide “CHAUMET Online official flagship store” (WeChat mini-program) (below).
Luxe.CO: What is the position of China’s market in CHAUMET’s brand strategy?
Jean-Marc Mansvelt: This market is fundamental for us. Both because it is very demanding, because its clients are increasingly knowledgeable and sophisticated, and because they have a desire for great, authentic, real history (not storytelling), but also for modernity, for a time that is moving forward, for this constant updating that forces the Maisons to remain themselves while reinventing themselves, while surprising the market, but with accuracy, high standards and excellence.
Luxe.CO: What changes have you observed in Chinese consumers’ jewelry consumption and which jewelry pieces are the most popular among Chinese customers?
Jean-Marc Mansvelt: I am sure that our Chinese customers are interested in the High Jewelry Collection. The launch of the High Jewelry collection is an annual event that reveals the new Maison CHAUMET and creates new surprises, inspires new emotions, and enriches the feelings and perception of the House of CHAUMET to a wider group of people.
Today, we are aware that our Chinese customers are increasingly open to creative pieces. It is no longer just a question of the public’s choice of diamonds or gemstones, but there is a growing interest in designs that use colorful, high-quality stones. It’s clear that the Chinese market is becoming more sophisticated every year.
Luxe.CO: How do you view the digital transformation of jewelry luxury brands?
Jean-Marc Mansvelt: This openness to the digital world is obvious and necessary because it is today’s world. We can’t not be there. It’s also a good way to introduce CHAUMET to new audiences.
At the same time, my impression is that jewellery remains a very tactile world. What’s more, it’s a market that is still maturing and is probably less commonplace than others. We can do a lot of things with digital technology, but what we feel is that our clients, at least at CHAUMET, like to come into the shop, talk to the CHAUMET team, share their emotions, touch and try on the pieces.
So I would say that it is essential to be present in the digital world to share the culture and the stories of our Maison, to make it better known, but at the same time it is undoubtedly a means that complements the others, particularly the in-store experience.
“Nature is essential, both as a source of creation and as a source of raw materials”
Every year, CHAUMET releases a different theme for its high jewelry collection. This year, based on the theme of “water”, CHAUMET launched the “Ondes et Merveilles de CHAUMET” high jewelry collection in July this year. Back in January, CHAUMET had already first unveiled the Déferlante de Chaumet capsule collection.
The “Ondes et Merveilles de CHAUMET” Déferlante capsule collection contains eight pieces of jewelry, including a white gold crown, a white gold “convertible” ring, and a white gold diamond watch.
The white gold crown in this theme was inspired by a CHAUMET archival drawing of a fountain. The Maison used 1,600 different brilliant-cut and step-cut diamonds, presenting the strength of the waves.
The “Ondes et Merveilles de CHAUMET ” (below) is the brand’s first high jewelry collection to celebrate the sea, incorporating the exploration of the sea into the creation of 69 high jewelry pieces.
“There is no doubt that water, the sea, and other nature-related themes have always been a key source of inspiration for CHAUMET; we have a deep love for all aspects of the sea, plants, animals, the sky and other natural elements.” Jean-Marc Mansvelt told Luxe.CO.
In fact, “water”, “sea”, and other natural elements have been buried in the history of the CHAUMET brand for 242 years: Marie-Étienne Nitot, the brand’s founder, once said “I am a naturalist jeweller”, thus establishing the naturalist approach at the heart of the brand’s jewelry creations. Joseph CHAUMET, the seventh generation of CHAUMET, whose father was an ocean captain, has always been fascinated by the sea. Also CHAUMET’s headquarters, 12 Place Vendôme, was originally the home of French naval commander Baudard de Saint James. One of the parlors is decorated with a wooden floor with a compass rose pattern, and the skirting is embellished with bow, mast, sail, anchor, crabs, etc.
In June, CHAUMET held the “Végétal – L’École de la beauté” exhibition at Palais des Beaux-Arts in Paris, retracing the brand’s close relationship with “nature” and “plants”. In August, an extension of this grand exhibition came to the China World Trade Center Boutique in Beijing, where CHAUMET transformed the concrete jungle into a fantasy botanical kingdom.
CHAUMET’s “Plant Art” exhibition at China World Boutique Beijing
Luxe.CO: Why did you choose “water” as the inspiration for this year’s high jewelry collection?
Jean-Marc Mansvelt: CHAUMET has been exploring the sea and water and other themes related to nature for a long time; there is no doubt that naturalism is a key source of inspiration for the CHAUMET family.
We regularly review different themes, but each time we reinterpret them in a new, contemporary, creative, and skillful way. For 2022, therefore, we have chosen to revisit the theme of water and the sea.
By discovering how the meeting of the gulf streams emits a stunning array of colors, imagining what life in the deep sea is or could be like, we capture these dynamic moments of tumbling waves as timeless jewelry pieces.
Water and the ocean have a true abundance of life and never-ending energy. For this reason, the vast ocean has been an inexhaustible source of inspiration for artists for centuries.
Luxe.CO: What are the reasons behind CHAUMET’s focus on nature from different angles this year, from the high jewelry collection to the exhibition?
Jean-Marc Mansvelt: The founder of CHAUMET, Marie-Étienne Nitot, once positioned himself as a naturalist jeweler. Thus, nature already occupied a considerable place at the very beginning of the CHAUMET family. Later, Maison CHAUMET befriended Empress Joséphine during the Consulate and the French Empire, and the theme of nature took on a whole new dimension. Fascinated by botany, Empress Joséphine asked the painter Redouté to record the Malmaison garden in a painting. In this exhibition of botanical jewelry art, we can also see some parchment drawings and botanical specimens belonging to Redouté.
Indeed, CHAUMET has never stopped exploring the theme of nature in its various forms, especially those symbolic botanical themes associated with the era of the French Empire. Moreover, like any other jeweler, CHAUMET has to deal with the treasure trove that is nature.
So nature is vital, both as a source of inspiration for creation and as a source of raw materials for jewelry.
Luxe.CO: Does CHAUMET plan to organize exhibitions with other themes in China?
Jean-Marc Mansvelt: Yes, we work on various projects. But what we like to do at CHAUMET is to surprise and invent something unique to the country we are “visiting”, the culture and the place in which we are presenting our exhibition. This constant renewal is both a source of creativity and a way for us to show the respect we have for each country and each culture.
| Photo credit: Courtesy of the brand
| Editor: Zhu Ruoyu
