On September 19, thefine jewelry brand Qeelin, along with the China Dunhuang Grottoes Conservation Research Foundation and the Dunhuang Academy, hosted a donation ceremonyin front of the iconic Nine-storey Temple at Mogao Caves in Dunhuang.
This event marked Qeelin’s long-term commitment and support for the“Study on the accessories and jewelleries of the Dunhuang Caves in Sui and Tang dynasties” from the Dunhuang Grottoes, a three-year initiative. It is the first specialized study dedicated to the accessories and jewelleriesof the Dunhuang Grottoes.
Upon hearing about this collaboration, our first questions were:
- Why are Dunhuang Accessories Worth Studying?
- Why Did Dunhuang Choose to Collaborate with Qeelin on this research?
The answer to the first question is quite evident. To address the second, Luxe.CO visited Dunhuang to meet with Dennis Chan, Qeelin’s founder and creative director, and to exclusively interview the brand’s CEO, Christophe Artaux.
Why are Dunhuang Accessories Worth Studying?
Between the 3rd and 8th centuries, Dunhuang was a critical hub on the Silk Road, connecting East and West. Dunhuang’s art absorbed and integrated various cultures, creating a vast collection of multi-cultural influences.
The renowned scholar Ji Xianlin once said:
“There are only four major cultural systems in the world with a long history, broad geographical reach, self-contained systems, and far-reaching influence: the Chinese, Indian, Greek, and Islamic cultures. And there’s only one place where these four cultures converge, and that’s China’s Dunhuang and Xinjiang region.”
The Wife of the Commander-in-chief Worshipping Buddha (copy), from the No. 130 Mogao Cave, in the Middle Years of the Tang Dynasty
In this partnership, Qeelin’s collaboration with the China Dunhuang Grottoes Conservation Research Foundation and the Dunhuang Academy covers multiple grottoes, including the Mogao Caves, Maijishan Grottoes, Bingling Temple Caves, Yulin Caves, Xiqianfo Cave, and the Northern Stone Caves. The focus is on the accessories from the Sui and Tang Dynasties, marking the first specialized research into this field.
“A rainbow-colored robe with a peacock feathered crown, adorned with countless tassels”. The styles, colours and patterns of accessoriesduring the Sui and Tang dynasties ushered in a whole new era of increasingly decorative function, as we can see in the Dunhuang Grottos’murals.
“The designers of the Dunhuang patterns were always inspired by life, extracting elements of beauty from it. Even in small spaces, cave designers avoided a sense of confinement. Instead, they conveyed a lively atmosphere, gathering beauty and goodness,”Dunhuang scholar Yang Zhishuinoted.
However, the preservation conditions of the Dunhuang Grottoes remain challenging, making research and conservation efforts urgent. The honorary director of the Dunhuang Academy, Fan Jinshi, once mentioned on CCTV’s Stories from China: “Dunhuang murals are old and fragile. The pigment layers could peel off piece by piece, becoming brittle like pastry dough, and even a loud door closing could cause the layers to fall off.”
As such, this partnership aims to raise awareness about the importance of cultural heritage research and protection.
Secretary-General Song Zhen of the China Dunhuang Grottoes Conservation Foundation presenting a donation certificate to the CEO of Qeelin, Christophe Artaux.
Luxe.CO: What message does Qeelin hope to convey through this donation?
Christophe Artaux: We are approaching this purely from a cultural perspective, without any commercial interests. Our intention is to give back to society and to the region where we originated. Our goal is to support this research and gain a deeper understanding of how Eastern and Western cultures have influenced human society, aesthetic preferences, and ancient craftsmanship. This also reflects our respect for local culture.
Luxe.CO: How will this donation project be implemented?
Christophe Artaux: We are committed to this project for the long term. As a partner, we provide funding and will follow the research progress annually, planning how to continue supporting the project.
Luxe.CO: We know that Kering Group has been very active in supporting the arts and culture. Did this donation have their backing?
Christophe Artaux: Absolutely. We are fortunate to have the full support of the Kering Group. Supporting cultural causes is part of Kering’s vision and priority, which aligns with Qeelin’s ethos.
Why Did Dunhuang Choose to Collaborate with Qeelin on this research?
Qeelin’s CEO Christophe Artaux once said in an interview with Luxe.CO: “We stand between the worlds of East and West.”
This statement vividly describes Dennis Chan, Qeelin’s founder and creative director, as well as the brand itself. Both Chan and Qeelin have experienced and absorbed influences from both the East and West, focusing on integrating traditional culture with modern design in their fine jewelry.
Growing up in Hong Kong, and living abroad for many years, Dennis Chan first traveled to Dunhuang in 1997. He was deeply moved by the Mogao Caves’ murals, which inspired him to create a jewelry brand rooted in Eastern aesthetics.
Just as Dunhuang art reflects the assimilation, fusion, and recreation of various foreign civilizations—such as those from India, Greece, Rome, Persia, and Central Asia—Dunhuang is also the origin and inspiration of Qeelin.
As Christophe Artaux explained to Luxe.CO:”Qeelin blends Eastern and Western cultures, straddling tradition and modernity, fashion and heritage, achieving a balance between harmony and balance.”
Qeelin Wulu Collection
“Today, luxury is not just about design and craftsmanship, but more importantly, about emotional connection, something that touches the heart.”
Christophe Artauxfurther emphasized during his interview with Luxe.COthat Qeelin’s biggest distinction from other brands is that “Qeelin is a brand born out of Chinese culture. This unique characteristic sets us apart, and we will continue to cultivate and deepen our cultural roots. I believe this is the only way to stand out in such a crowded market.”
As Qeelin celebrates its 20th anniversary, the brand returns to Dunhuang, not only contributing to cultural research there but also continuing to draw spiritual resonance and creative inspiration from the culturalheritage.
During the donation ceremony, Dennis Chan reflected on the brand’s founding principle, saying, “I once thought, if one day we could innovate modern Chinese art through these beautiful works, that would be the greatest achievement. Over the years, we have manifestedthis original intention through Qeelin jewelry, and we hope to contribute to the global dissemination of Chinese culture.”
Qeelin founder and creative director Dennis Chan presenting a Qeelin brand book to Zhao Linyi, Deputy Director of the Dunhuang Academy
In the murals of the Mogao Caves, the Wuluelement often appears in wedding cups, the gourd zither, and even the jewelry of the offering people.. Dennis Chan transformed the auspicious symbolism of the Wuluinto the modern minimalist design of Qeelin’s iconic WuluCollection. At the “Miracle Garden” Fine Jewelry Exhibition in Hangzhou this March, Qeelin unveiled the Wulu FairyfinejewelryCollection.
Dennis Chan introduced the collectionsaying, “We borrowed the light and airy beauty of the celestial beings’ robes and integrated this movement into our jewelry designs.”
Qeelin Wulu Fairy collection
Dennis Chan emphasized that his designs are not meant to be mere reproductions but rather reinterpretations using modern techniques. His goal is to create contemporary jewelry that is rich in meaning, transcending borders, and is suitable for everyday wear.
Recently, Qeelin launched the Dunhuang Bo Bo collection, paying homage to the Flying Apsaras murals, while sharing Dunhuang’s unique aesthetic and cultural values with the world.
Qeelin Dunhuang Bo Bo
Luxe.CO: How hasthe collaboration with Creative Director Dennis Chan unfolded?
Christophe Artaux: Working with Dennis is a pleasure. He is a very easy-going person, combining creative vision with a pragmatic approach. He thoroughly understands the brand’s development priorities, and we have built a deep level of trust between us.
Luxe.CO: What impressions has life in China left on you?
Christophe Artaux: There are many things in China that have deeply impressed me, especially the richness of the culture and the emotional connections between people. Just a few days ago, we celebrated the Mid-Autumn Festival, which is a beautiful moment for family reunions. In China, many moments and activities hold symbolic meaning.
This is also one of the reasons I admire Qeelin. From the very beginning, the brand has used its creations to tell stories, expressing magical and symbolic Chinese designs in a very modern way.
“A Young Brand Must Be Very Active”
China’s luxury jewelry market is fiercely competitive, but Qeelin, a relatively young brand, has remained vibrant. In Luxe.CO’s 2024 H1 “Luxury Jewelry& Watch BrandsPower Rankings,” Qeelin ranked fourth, rising two spots compared to the same period last year.
Christophe Artaux described the year as “very eventful—busy, exciting, and inspiring.”
In celebration of its 20th anniversary, Qeelin hosted a series of major events:
- In August, the brand opened its first nationwide concept boutique in Taikoo Li,Chengdu, featuring a Bo Bo-themed finejewelry exhibition inspired by China’s national treasure, the panda.
- In May, Qeelin, along with global ambassadors Lay ZhangandYoona Lim, attended the 77th Cannes Film Festival, paying tribute to Maggie Cheung’s Qeelin jewelry moment 20 years earlier when she became the first Chinese actress to win Best Actress inCannes.
- In March, Qeelin unveiled its flagship store in Tokyo’s Ginza District. The “Miracle Garden”finejewelry exhibition was held in Hangzhou.
- In February, Qeelin filmed its New Year’s video along theYulong River in Yangshuo featuring globalbrandambassadorLiuShishi.
- In January, Lay Zhang was announced as the global brand ambassador.
Qeelin concept boutique in Chengdu’s Taikoo Li
When asked why Qeelin has been able to maintain such an active brand presence, Christophe Artaux humbly remarked: “We are a young brand. We face many competitors, both Chinese and international, who have been in the market for a longer time. When you are as young as we are in such a competitive market, you need to be hyperactive, like my twin sons who are always full of energy, haha.”
Christophe Artaux has worked in the luxury industry for decades and has led Qeelin for over ten years.
Luxe.CO: What is Qeelin’s advantage in the Chinese market?
Christophe Artaux: I believe Qeelin is unique and incomparable; we face all challenges with confidence. We are based in China, deeply connected to the market, and highly flexible and responsive.
When we try to convey this harmony and balance from a creative perspective, it’s honestly not easy. China’s communication context changes every day, and my team and I are here working on this.
Qeelin global brand ambassador Liu Shishi featured in the brand’s New Year film shot at Yulong River. Image source: Shang Cheng Shi
Luxe.CO: How do you view the current market environment?
Christophe Artaux: The market may be more challenging, but that’s normal. Every category goes through cycles. I believe the primary task is to stay true to ourselves—who we are and what we represent—rather than making opportunistic decisions that deviate from the direction we’ve been following for over a decade. At this stage, it’s about understanding future growth drivers and allocating resources appropriately.
We are customer-focused and pay close attention to how we interact with our customers. Right now, branded jewelry is gaining market share from non-branded pieces, and this trend will continue. Therefore, brand storytelling becomes even more crucial as consumers seek emotional connections with brands. They care about the values that brands represent. I’m not worried about the health of the jewelry category in the coming years.
Luxe.CO: What is your view on jewelry brands opening large flagship stores?
Christophe Artaux: We have no plans for Qeelin to open many large flagship stores, although we did recently open a new store in Ginza, Japan. Our focus is on long-term strategies to elevate the brand’s desirability.
Qeelin flagship store in Ginza, Tokyo
We are indeed upgrading some of our stores in terms of size and concept, such as the recent concept store in Chengdu’s Taikoo Li and the renovated Shanghai Plaza 66 store. We will continue to invest in enhancing the in-store experience.
Luxe.CO: As a young brand, does Qeelin have areas that need more attention?
Christophe Artaux: We began rebranding over 10 years ago to cater to a broader range of jewelry categories and price segments. We redesigned many collections, and most of the work has been completed, but now we are in a fine-tuning phase.
One of our current focuses is increasing our share in the high-endjewelry segment. We launched a bridal collection 18 months ago, and we aim to become an all-roundjeweler, covering all categories. There is still much work to do, and it will take some time.
In terms of products, we are very focused on our existing collections, including the iconic Wulu, Bo Bo, and XiXi collections. I believe we should concentrate our resources rather than dilute our focus. There is still much work to be done with our current collections.
Luxe.CO: Which aspects of Qeelin do you think still need improvement?
Christophe Artaux: Having worked in this industry for decades, I can confidently tell you that there is always room for improvement. I never say a task is finished. In my view, complacency is the worst thing in life, so we strive to do better.
Significant changes have occurred over the past decade in China, including evolving consumer expectations, the complexity of demand, and competition in terms of brands, channels, and the media landscape, particularly ondigital platforms. For a foreigner like me, it’s not always easy to understand.
In such a dynamic market, you must remain humble, agile, and focused. Even though Qeelin has grown in scale, there is still so much more we can do.
Conclusion
Christophe Artaux told Luxe.CO that this year, Qeelin’s key focuses include the Chinese market, the fine jewelry category, and selective international expansion. He reiterated the importance of the Chinese market: “For us, China will continue to be the driving force, and the Chinese Mainland remains our number one and priority market. Expanding internationally will not come at the expense of the Chinese Mainland market. The new store in Japan is part of our strategy, and our vision is to bring Chinese jewelry to the world, which is also Dennis Chan’s dream.”
Looking ahead, Qeelin will continue to uphold two significant commitments: one is to celebrate the culture of its home market, and the other is to contribute to sustainability efforts.
Christophe Artaux stated: “This is not only in response to customer conversations but also because we have a responsibility to make this planet better. It’s not just an environmental issue, but a social one as well. Just like our involvement in the Dunhuang project, it’s our duty to pass on knowledge to the next generation.”
Jingqing Cai, President of Kering Greater China, also attended the donation ceremony for Qeelin’s partnership with Dunhuang. The group has long been committed to supporting global cultural endeavors.
She remarked: “Each accessory in the Dunhuang Grottoes is an irreplaceable cultural heritage. Qeelin’s support aims to ensure these cultural treasures are preserved and passed down to future generations. We believe that every effort to protect cultural heritage is an investment in the future and the best continuation of Qeelin’s brand spirit.”
| Image Credit: Dunhuang Academy Official Website, Qeelin
| Editor: Elisa
