Nordic fashion crosses half a continent to arrive in Italy!
From June 15 to 18, during the 2025 Spring/Summer Milan Fashion Week, the Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF) collaborated with the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) to host a static exhibition. This marked the first time that a collection of Scandinavian designers’ works was showcased in Milan—the global heart of fashion. Seven distinctive Nordic brands presented their collections at the Palazzo Giureconsulti, just steps away from the Milan Cathedral. These brands included: ADNYM, CDLP, Envelop 1976, Henrik Vibskov, Mark Kenly Domino Tan, Aiayu, and ISNURH.
Luxe.CO conducted an in-depth on-site interview with CIFF Director Ms. Sofie Dolva and the founders of each brand to explore CIFF’s innovative role and the connection between Nordic design and Italian fashion.
CIFF: Leading Nordic Brands “Beyond Scandinavia”
“CIFF is not only a biannual trade fair but a 360° service and community. Building bridges and helping our brands enter other countries is essential, especially those that are significant for the brands and the fashion industry,” said Sofie Dolva (pictured below).
Italy is one of the most important destinations. Before Milan, the Pitti Uomo in Florence had set up a “Scandinavian Manifesto” section for several consecutive editions, promoted by Revolver, the Nordic fashion trade fair acquired by CIFF in early 2023.
“We received so much positive feedback that we thought, why not do something in Milan? However, gaining attention here is very challenging, so we approached the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, who were very interested in the project,” said Sofie Dolva. Thus, the collaboration was born. “But for this Milan project, we needed a different approach,” Sofie Dolva told Luxe.CO. Therefore, the four-day event included not only static exhibitions but also forums and cocktail parties. “We want to expand this community and bring Nordic fashion brands to the world, sparking more interest in Nordic fashion.”
On-site Forum at the event
Regarding the selection process of the seven participating brands, Sofie Dolva explained her workflow: “We constantly communicate with the brands about their development. When planning together, we try to understand their target markets and see if there are brands with similar goals. Meanwhile, the brands themselves need to be innovative.”
Sofie Dolva took on the role of CIFF Director in August 2022. She previously held senior positions at the beauty giant L’Oréal and has entrepreneurial experience. After the merger of CIFF and Revolver, she described the mission of the trade fair: “We think about trade fairs in a more modern way and adapt them to current needs. This is why we have become more like business partners with the brands. We want to go beyond Scandinavia and work more strategically with the brands. So, instead of short-term agreements for just one season, we now aim to work together for at least a year to make detailed plans.”
Sofie Dolva is dedicated to reshaping the traditional trade fair model in innovative ways. Under her leadership, CIFF is bringing a richer variety of Nordic brands and categories to other markets. During the September 2023 fashion week, in addition to fashion brands, CIFF introduced a collection of niche beauty brands characterized by Nordic minimalist aesthetics to New York.
The Intersection of Nordic and Italian Design
“What is the spirit of Nordic design?” we asked each interviewee on-site for their perspectives. “Minimalism” and “sustainability” were the recurring keywords.
Sofie Dolva said, “The core of Nordic design is minimalism. Now, there is more creativity, and tailoring is a strong suit for many brands. But I still believe that most Scandinavian brands are very focused on quality and increasingly on long-term responsibility.”
Frippe Persson, co-founder of Swedish designer brand ADNYM, also emphasized minimalism: “Not much color, focus on silhouette, not exaggerated but practical. We want our clothes to shape who you are rather than making you become someone else. Brands with big logos make you the logo, and you disappear. We aim to be the opposite—no logos, allowing your personality to shine through the clothes.”
ADNYM official Instagram
Celine Aagaard, founder of Norwegian brand Envelop 1976, described her brand’s characteristics: “We are distinctly minimalist and focus on sustainability. This involves not just materials but also how we design clothes, such as creating garments that can be worn in different ways.” Founded in 2018 in Oslo, Envelop 1976 specializes in womenswear and gender-neutral clothing. In 2021, they opened a concept store next to the Munch Museum, featuring installations made of rocks selected by the founder.
Simplicity also signifies inclusivity. Nordic design acts like a vessel, embracing various aesthetics. Founded in 2016, ADNYM combines silhouettes and color schemes from the Middle East, particularly Beirut, with Nordic minimalist aesthetics. This season, the designer drew inspiration from a visit to Hemingway’s home in Florida, creating a unique collection.
Envelop 1976 2024 Limited Edition Collection
Envelop 1976 emphasizes timeless and avant-garde concepts, encouraging wearers to explore various styles and appearances while surpassing fleeting trends. They focus on creating designs that withstand the test of time, prioritizing seasonless designs in their four annual collections.
Swedish fashion brand CDLP, which started with men’s underwear, uses sustainable materials and manufactures in Europe with factories powered by solar energy. Their product materials, from underwear to socks, T-shirts, and swimwear, are made from recycled ocean waste and plastics. “We try to build long-lasting, sustainable collections,” said Frippe Persson, who showcased a garment made from 50% rose-based material. “From an environmental perspective, this material is better, and functionally, it offers more UV protection than pure cotton.”
Danish Brand Aiayu Product Showcase
In general perception, Nordic design is simple and bright, while Italian design excels in intricate aesthetics. When these two contrasting styles meet, where is the intersection? Frippe Persson believes that Italians and Nordics share a passion for quality, particularly in fabrics, despite their different tastes and focuses.
Founded in 2016 by Christian Larson and Andreas Palm, CDLP started with men’s underwear and gradually expanded into a brand offering luxurious basics, including men’s and women’s underwear, swimwear, loungewear, and T-shirts. CDLP has elevated the quality of everyday wear. Despite their minimalist appearance, the brand’s external presentation is maximalist, fitting well with the Southern European lifestyle.
Reflecting on their experience at the fashion week, several Nordic designers mentioned an interesting point: Milan is not crowded. The spacious and bright Palazzo Giureconsulti, with its corridor-structured showroom, allows industry professionals to thoroughly touch and understand the products’ style and texture, facilitating efficient and immersive communication. “Usually, we only exhibit in Paris; this is our first time in Italy,” said one designer.
| Image Credit: Luxe.CO on-site photography, CIFF official Facebook, and official brand accounts
| Editor: Xiaoyue Zhao
