“In my daily meetings, my two favorite topics are: boutiques, because I get to select exquisite furniture for them, and jewelry creativity, where I can discuss new projects with Claire.” Hélène Poulit-Duquesne, Global CEO of the French high jewelry brand Boucheron, said with a smile as she talked about her daily work.
Following the pandemic, China’s luxury retail market is regaining momentum. After François-Henri Pinault, Chairman and CEO of Boucheron’s parent company, Kering, visited China in early February, a wave of international luxury executives has begun returning to the market. Hélène also visited China at the end of March, with Shanghai as her first stop, followed by Beijing. During her tightly scheduled two-day trip, she and her team focused on evaluating local boutiques.
Back in 2015, when Hélène first took office, Boucheron had no directly operated boutiques in the Chinese Mainland. Today, the brand has 13. In Beijing, she sat down for an exclusive interview with Luxe.CO, where she reflected on the rapid transformation of Chinese cities and the fast-paced growth of retail. “The changes in the past three years have been incredible. Many major brands have been expanding, opening two-story, three-story, and even four-story flagship stores.”
Above: Boucheron boutique at Plaza 66, Shanghai
According to Kering’s full-year 2022 financial report, its jewelry brands achieved remarkable progress, with Boucheron continuing steady growth.
In this interview, Hélène candidly shared the efforts she has made since becoming Boucheron’s Global CEO. Through her words, we gained a clear understanding of Boucheron’s development trajectory in recent years, as well as her aspirations for the Chinese market and her desire to break traditional boundaries in the jewelry world.
- What Is Boucheron’s Priority Strategy in China?
- “The Deeper a Brand Engages in the Digital World, the More It Must Explore in the Physical World”
- “No Two Boucheron Boutiques Are Alike”
- Why Does Boucheron Release Two High Jewelry Collections a Year?
Hélène Poulit-Duquesne is a graduate of ESSEC Business School in Paris. She began her career at the French luxury conglomerate LVMH. In 1998, she joined Cartier International, spending 17 years leading international marketing and business development. She was appointed Cartier’s International Marketing Director and Executive Committee Member in 2010 and later served as International Business and Client Development Director in 2014. In 2015, she joined Kering as the Global CEO of Boucheron, becoming one of the first women to lead a high jewelry brand.
What Is Boucheron’s Priority Strategy in China?
Compared to other high jewelry brands, Boucheron entered the Chinese Mainland market relatively late. Cartier was among the first, establishing a presence in 1992, followed by Tiffany in 2001 and Bulgari in 2003.
Hélène acknowledged this fact without hesitation. “No one will wait for you in a new market,” she said. When she joined Boucheron in 2015, she immediately prioritized the brand’s development in China, as it had no directly operated boutiques in the market at the time.
Under her leadership, Boucheron opened its first directly operated boutique in the Chinese Mainland in January 2018 at Plaza 66 in Shanghai, followed by a second boutique at Beijing’s China World Mall later that month. Today, the brand operates 10 directly operated boutiques across six cities—Shanghai, Beijing, Chengdu, Shenzhen, Nanjing, and Xi’an—as well as one duty-free boutique each in Sanya and Haikou.
Luxe.CO: After deciding to enter the Chinese Mainland market, what were Boucheron’s initial strategic priorities?
Hélène Poulit-Duquesne: At the time, we established two key priorities. The first was to clearly convey Boucheron’s brand positioning to consumers: we are a distinguished and avant-garde French high jewelry maison from Place Vendôme, Paris.
During that period, I frequently hosted VIP dinners with clients from Beijing and Shanghai. Through close interactions, I realized that customers already recognized Boucheron as one of the top-tier high jewelry brands.
We have a rich brand history to share with Chinese customers. Boucheron is part of a prestigious group of historic high jewelry houses, yet it stands out as the most innovative among its peers. This pioneering spirit originates from our founder, Frédéric Boucheron, who was the first jeweler to establish a presence on Place Vendôme—now the global epicenter of high jewelry. His visionary move set a precedent for the industry.
Secondly, as a “new brand” in a new market, we needed to ensure that customers understood our signature pieces. So, our second priority in China was to educate the market about our iconic collections.
Luxe.CO: Which product line is currently the best-seller for Boucheron in China?
Hélène Poulit-Duquesne: Without a doubt, the Quatre collection. It is highly popular worldwide.
Luxe.CO: Given Boucheron’s relatively late entry into the Chinese Mainland market, do you see this as a major challenge for the brand’s development?
Hélène Poulit-Duquesne: For Boucheron, this was indeed a disadvantage or a challenge, because no one waits for you in a new market. However, ever since we entered China, I have always shared this belief with my team: consumers crave novelty.
I position Boucheron as a 165-year-old high jewelry maison that remains committed to innovation. We are a French house with a rich heritage and exceptional craftsmanship, yet in the Chinese market, we are a fresh brand. Our presence introduces something new and offers consumers an additional choice in the high jewelry landscape. I believe this is why we have achieved our current success.
Luxe.CO: What are your observations on the demographics of high jewelry consumers in China today?
Hélène Poulit-Duquesne: The age of high jewelry buyers has been decreasing. Twenty years ago, the typical customer was around 45 years old. Today, they are in their 20s. The shift has been incredibly rapid.
For Boucheron, our primary clientele falls into two categories. The first group we call the “Parents Generation,” while the second is the “Sugar Generation.” The latter consists of exceptionally affluent young individuals who were born into wealthy families, received high-quality education, and are highly active on social media. They are well-informed about brands and trends.
Moreover, they are confident, creative, and eager to express their individuality. Compared to their parents, they are more willing to explore innovative jewelry pieces, whereas the older generation tends to favor classic signature designs that symbolize status.
Luxe.CO: In terms of customer demographics, what is the ratio of male to female clients at Boucheron?
Hélène Poulit-Duquesne: In most markets, women make up the majority of our clientele. However, in China, this depends on whether we are looking at buyers or wearers. If we consider buyers, men account for a higher proportion. If we consider wearers, women dominate.
From what I understand, Boucheron is one of the most gender-fluid (genderless) brands in the market today.
Above: Boucheron Quatre Black collection diamond bracelet and ring
“The Deeper a Brand Engages in the Digital World, the More It Must Explore in the Physical World”
“Over the next few years, Boucheron will open seven more boutiques in China, with a goal of expanding to a maximum of 26 boutiques. However, we do not aim to build an overly extensive retail network. We believe that having around 20 boutiques in a single country is sufficient to represent the brand,” said Hélène.
When asked about the specific cities and commercial districts where Boucheron plans to expand, she laughed and replied, “I can’t give a precise answer now because Chinese cities and shopping destinations evolve too quickly. Every three months, a new commercial complex emerges, and existing ones are completely transformed.”
At the end of April this year, Boucheron held the Boucheron Maison Experience in Chengdu, following successful events in Beijing and Shanghai.
Above: Boucheron Maison Experience, Shanghai edition
Luxe.CO: Why did you choose Chengdu as the next stop for the Boucheron Maison Experience?
Hélène Poulit-Duquesne: Our local team in China told me that Chengdu is a rising hotspot—full of energy and attraction.
Luxe.CO: What kind of interactions do you think resonate most with consumers today, especially the younger generation?
Hélène Poulit-Duquesne: Most brand-consumer interactions now happen on social media or digital platforms.
However, I believe the younger generation needs opportunities to connect with brands in an entertaining and immersive way. That’s why we organize exhibitions—allowing customers to fully immerse themselves in our world and evoke emotions. Through this process, they feel like they are part of the brand and form a deeper connection with it.
Luxe.CO: Many luxury brands are opening larger boutiques spanning two or even three floors. What do you think is the significance of boutiques for a brand?
Hélène Poulit-Duquesne: Boutiques are absolutely essential. I have always said that as brands expand in retail, their boutique network becomes even more crucial.
Today, many people predict that everything will become digital in the future. But in my view, the digital and physical worlds complement each other. The deeper you engage in the digital world, the more you will explore in the physical world—because people will always seek new experiences.
The role of boutiques has changed significantly. Twenty years ago, if you wanted to buy a product, you had to visit a boutique—there was no other choice. But in the past five years, this has dramatically shifted. Now, people don’t visit boutiques just to purchase something—they can do that in seconds with a few clicks.
Instead, customers go to boutiques for a holistic experience and genuine emotional interaction with the brand. I believe this is why luxury brands in China have been opening increasingly larger boutiques in the past year—they need more space for customers to gather with friends and enjoy an engaging, immersive experience.
“No Two Boucheron Boutiques Are Alike”
Hélène takes great pride in Boucheron’s boutique design. “Our boutiques are designed with a completely unique philosophy. Many jewelry brands have boutiques that look strikingly similar in terms of color schemes and decor—I could practically write a guidebook on how to create a cookie-cutter boutique.
But if you step into any Boucheron boutique, they all look different. That’s because we’ve chosen to tell the story of Place Vendôme through diverse design languages.”
During the interview, Hélène repeatedly emphasized that visiting Boucheron’s flagship store at 26 Place Vendôme is an experience not to be missed. In fact, one of her first initiatives as CEO was to propose renovating this historically significant boutique to the Pinault family, who lead Kering.
Above: Boucheron flagship store at Place Vendôme, Paris
“This is not just a boutique—it is Boucheron’s home. Since our founder, Frédéric Boucheron, moved into this building in 1893, it has become a symbol of our brand’s history and values. Today, all our departments are gathered here,” Hélène once explained in an official statement regarding the flagship store renovation.
Originally built in 1717, the Hôtel de Nocé, which houses Boucheron’s flagship, was once a residence for French nobility. In 1930, it was designated as a historic monument. Because of this, Hélène was committed to preserving its heritage during the renovation, enlisting Michel Goutal, Chief Architect of Historic Monuments at the Louvre, to oversee the restoration of the building’s façade.
She also brought in renowned French interior designer Pierre-Yves Rochon to reimagine the interior. “I told Rochon that I wanted to create the feeling of a home and incorporate as much antique furniture as possible.”
Hélène even shared a personal anecdote from the renovation: “I asked senior employees involved in the renovation to write messages for future generations, which I placed inside a metal box. Only one other person and I know where this box is hidden inside the flagship store. My hope is that, 100 years from now, when the building is renovated again, people will discover this treasure and uncover its stories.”
Luxe.CO: Why is it important for Boucheron to create distinctive boutique designs?
Hélène Poulit-Duquesne: I have always loved traveling. One year, I visited 20 cities across China in just 10 days and saw countless boutiques. But when I returned to Paris, I realized that I couldn’t recall a single one—they had all blended into a blur.
That was when I understood how quickly standardized boutique designs can become uninspiring. I made a promise to myself that if I ever became the CEO of a brand, I would ensure that every boutique around the world was unique. This is something I have worked on and continue to do at Boucheron.
Specifically, I ask the team in charge of each boutique’s decor to source antique pieces from around the world—because antiques carry stories. I also personally select boutique fabrics, making sure that each store—especially the VIP salons—tells its own unique story.
Luxe.CO: Does every Boucheron boutique in China have a VIP salon?
Hélène Poulit-Duquesne: Yes. Even if the boutique doesn’t have a fully enclosed salon, we always create a dedicated private space. The layout depends on the store’s size, but ensuring a private and intimate experience is always a top priority for us when designing boutiques.
Why Does Boucheron Release Two High Jewelry Collections a Year?
During Kering’s 2022 full-year earnings call, the Group’s Chief Financial Officer, Jean-Marc Duplaix, noted: “Boucheron has achieved consistent double-digit growth by combining traditional, modern, and innovative elements in its high jewelry and jewelry collections.”
This unique product strategy and strong performance are the result of eight years of collaboration between Hélène Poulit-Duquesne and Boucheron’s Creative Director, Claire Choisne.
Above: In January 2023, Boucheron launched the Histoire de Style, Like a Queen high jewelry collection.
“In my first few years at Boucheron, I strongly encouraged Claire to unleash her creativity and design highly innovative jewelry pieces. I wanted to emphasize that Boucheron is the most creative and avant-garde jewelry brand. At that time, we only launched new collections once a year in July.
However, our commercial teams soon provided feedback that these highly creative pieces were difficult to sell. Many traditional jewelry customers still buy for investment purposes, and they prefer jewelry pieces with large gemstones rather than purely creative designs.
So, we decided to adjust our launch schedule to twice a year, in January and July. I asked Claire to focus on Boucheron’s archives for the January collections—reinterpreting our history and craftsmanship through a fresh creative lens, while also incorporating significant gemstones. For the July collections, Claire has complete creative freedom. With this approach, we aim to tell Boucheron’s story in two distinct ways.”
Claire Choisne holds a degree in jewelry design from the École du Louvre in Paris. She previously worked as a jewelry designer at Loiseau Kebadjian and later became Creative Director at French designer jewelry brand Lorenz Bäumer. She has served as Boucheron’s Creative Director since 2011.
Luxe.CO: Boucheron is the first major jewelry house on Place Vendôme to be led by two women. In your view, how does female leadership bring a different perspective to a jewelry brand?
Hélène Poulit-Duquesne: Claire and I see jewelry in a completely different way from others. Many people consider jewelry to be a form of art meant for museums, but I believe that art is just one aspect of jewelry. We are more interested in exploring how jewelry can become part of everyday life.
As women, we focus more on the emotional connection between products and customers. To this day, people buy jewelry for emotional reasons—to celebrate birthdays, weddings, and other major life events. So, we want to cultivate this emotional connection, ensuring that no matter the occasion, wearing Boucheron jewelry is a meaningful experience.
Claire is exceptional at emotional storytelling. She creates jewelry with a deep sense of sentiment—like a poet who tells stories through high jewelry collections.
Luxe.CO: How do you and Claire maintain close collaboration?
Hélène Poulit-Duquesne: Our personalities are very similar—we are both straightforward, direct, sincere, and maybe even a little stubborn. This makes it easy for us to understand each other and form a strong working relationship.
Additionally, Claire is the most commercially aware creative director I have ever met, and I might be the most creative CEO (laughs). I have a deep passion for art and once considered becoming an artist myself, so we naturally find balance.
My biggest contribution to Claire’s work is ensuring she has the creative freedom and protection she needs. Even when her ideas seem commercially risky, I am not afraid to take creative risks.
Of course, I care about business figures, brand development, and sales performance. But I believe that a brand must be built on core values, a mission, and a vision—business results are simply the outcome. My role is not just to drive commercial success but to help the brand tell its story. I believe that whether it’s Claire, myself, or our other team members, we all have stories we want to share.
Luxe.CO: If you had to describe Boucheron in three words, what would they be?
Hélène Poulit-Duquesne: Heritage, Cutting-edge, and Style.
Luxe.CO: How does Boucheron balance tradition, modernity, and innovation?
Hélène Poulit-Duquesne: For us, this balance comes naturally. Innovation is embedded in Boucheron’s DNA. Some brands do not see innovation as part of their mission, which often keeps them stuck in the past.
Both Claire and I love innovation—we enjoy pushing boundaries and disrupting the jewelry industry.
As for balance, our two annual high jewelry collections are the perfect example.
I firmly believe that the best way to inspire a creative mind is to set boundaries—asking them to work within a defined framework. That’s why I always insist that Claire’s designs must respect Boucheron’s history. Within this framework, she has the freedom to create anything.
Luxe.CO: As CEO, what does your daily routine look like?
Hélène Poulit-Duquesne: I start my day with a glass of vegetable juice. If I am not traveling, I take the subway to my temporary office near Place Vendôme—since our office is currently under renovation.
My schedule is packed with meetings every day. Of these, two types of meetings are my favorites: boutique-related meetings, where I get to select exquisite furniture for our stores, and jewelry creativity meetings, where I discuss new projects with Claire.
Luxe.CO: What is your management philosophy?
Hélène Poulit-Duquesne: I have developed my own management philosophy, and its core principle is creating a workplace where employees feel safe. I firmly believe that when people feel insecure, they cannot fully focus on their work. It’s similar to how, in the animal kingdom, a leader must first find a safe shelter for the group.
That’s why I always tell my management team: protect your team, create an environment where they can speak freely, and they will perform at their best.
| Image Credit: Provided by Boucheron
| Editor: Zhu Ruoyu
