Luxe.CO noticed that another diamond jewelry brand has begun a revitalization and upgrade—Hearts On Fire, a brand under the Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group.
Ten years ago, in 2014, Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group acquired Hearts On Fire for $150 million, further enriching the group’s brand and product portfolio. The brand, founded in the United States in 1996, was once renowned in the industry for its slogan “The World’s Most Perfectly Cut Diamond.”
Since April 2021, Hearts On Fire has welcomed a new management team:
• Rita Maltez, a seasoned executive with 20 years of experience at the global mining giant Rio Tinto, a member of the Natural Diamond Council, became the Global President of Hearts on Fire.
• In September 2023, Yunjo Lee, a jewelry designer who previously worked at Tiffany & Co. and Canadian D2C jewelry brand Mejuri, became the Chief Creative Officer of Hearts on Fire.
These two female executives, with backgrounds in upstream industry and jewelry design, have completed the revitalization of Hearts On Fire. This summer, the brand updated its visual identity, launched new jewelry products, and opened its first store in Hong Kong’s Central district following the brand’s revitalization.
In an exclusive interview with Luxe.CO, Global President Rita Maltez and Chief Creative Officer Yunjo Lee discussed the brand revitalization strategy for Hearts on Fire, their design philosophy, and their unique insights into the current diamond industry.
Above left: Global President Rita Maltez; Above right: Chief Creative Officer Yunjo Lee; Below: BARRE Collection Diamond Rings
The following is a transcript of the interview:
“In the Jewelry Industry, Understanding the Upstream Supply Chain and Retail Sector Often Involves Two Different Groups”
Luxe.CO: Is an understanding and control over the supply chain crucial when building a diamond jewelry brand?
Rita Maltez: Absolutely. I worked at Rio Tinto for 20 years, gaining a solid understanding of the upstream diamond industry. I established Rio Tinto’s Hong Kong office, overseeing the Greater China region, including product development, design, marketing, and personnel training.
Although I don’t have retail experience, I have worked closely with many retail brands’ clients—Chow Tai Fook being one of them. I spent more time in Chow Tai Fook’s office than in my own.
Most jewelry brands source their products directly from suppliers. Some brands handle jewelry setting themselves, but very few participate in raw material procurement and cutting. As a member of the Chow Tai Fook Group, we have complete upstream supply chain resources, allowing us to control the entire process from diamond procurement, cutting, and polishing to design.
In the jewelry industry, understanding the upstream supply chain and retail sector often involves two different groups of people. Although I am not a gemologist, I have a deep understanding of the diamond market and diamond quality. One of my tasks now is to help the team better understand diamonds, combining knowledge of both the upstream and downstream sectors.
All departments, including marketing and sales teams, visit diamond factories to learn as much about diamonds as possible. We don’t necessarily have to become diamond experts, but we must become experts in Hearts On Fire diamonds.
Hearts On Fire is the “crown jewel” of the Chow Tai Fook Group. Revitalizing this brand is a unique experience and a rare opportunity in one’s career.
Hearts On Fire Hong Kong Store
Luxe.CO: Has the meaning and perceived value of diamonds changed or even diminished?
Rita Maltez: Diamond roughs, like gold, are finite.
Currently, there are no new diamond mines discovered globally, and the global supply of diamonds is declining. I worked at Rio Tinto in Argyle, Australia, the home of “pink diamonds.” When the mine closed, the world no longer had new pink diamonds, so the desire for diamonds will not disappear.
I believe that no matter what happens in the world, diamonds’ intrinsic value, rarity, and beauty will not fade—there will always be people attracted to diamonds.
In the past, we saw diamonds as symbols of love and marriage, but now the symbol of “love” is more expansive. You can buy diamond jewelry for your friends, sisters, or yourself. Many things have their ups and downs, but essentially, diamonds have always held an important place in human life.
To embrace this change, brands and the industry need to offer consumers more choices, allowing them to “coexist” with diamonds. We need to change the way we interact with diamonds, making them suitable for everyday wear rather than just being tied to marriage—many women lock their engagement rings in a safe right after the proposal, never to look at them again.
“Diamonds Used to Be Serious, But Hearts On Fire Wants to Show the Fun Side of Diamonds”
Luxe.CO: What opportunities and demands did you discover during market analysis when formulating the revitalization plan for Hearts On Fire?
Rita Maltez: When we initiated the brand revitalization, we found that the current diamond jewelry market is divided into two parts:
- One part consists of traditional diamond brand giants: These brands’ products are very traditional, classic, and positioned at the high end, often considered “gemological experts.”
- The other part consists of more fashionable brands: These brands’ designs are more modern but lack technical knowledge and expertise in diamonds.
So, we identified a market gap, the “contemporary diamond expert.”
Imagine a young woman who wants to design fashionable diamond jewelry but also cares about the quality of the diamonds—the market doesn’t fully cater to her needs, but we can.
Hearts On Fire’s slogan used to be “The World’s Most Perfectly Cut Diamond.” I think our technique is more about the precise cutting formula which creates a uniform 8 hearts and arrows patterns and brings maximum brilliance of our diamonds. So, we realized that if we could bring this exquisite craftsmanship into modern jewelry and communicate it in an innovative way, it would be a significant opportunity.
BARRE Collection Bracelet, priced around 72910 USD
The BARRE collection includes necklaces, earrings, bracelets, bangles, brooches, and rings, with product prices ranging from 2523-72910 USD.
Luxe.CO: As a member of the Chow Tai Fook Group, what synergies has Hearts On Fire benefited from?
Rita Maltez: In terms of retail network, the synergies are tremendous.
Currently, Hearts On Fire is sold through more than 300 Chow Tai Fook outlets. Not many brands in the industry can receive such strong support. And as Hearts On Fire re-enters the spotlight, the Chow Tai Fook Group has provided excellent endorsement for the brand.
Chow Tai Fook truly understands how to create high-quality jewelry with first-class, innovative technology. One of the reasons Yunjo joined was the opportunity to work alongside craftsmen in the workshops.
Yunjo Lee: Most of Chow Tai Fook’s craftsmen have 15 to 20 years of experience. There is also one master craftsman who has worked for over 40 years, making him the longest-serving goldsmith at Chow Tai Fook. Being able to work and communicate directly with these craftsmen is a “luxury” opportunity for any jewelry designer. These craftsmen are extremely skilled in handling materials like gold and diamonds.
The beauty of working with them lies in the fusion of “art meeting science,” “innovation meeting tradition.”
Luxe.CO: What brand philosophy is reflected in Hearts On Fire’s new visual identity?
Rita Maltez: Many months ago, we began discussing the new logo & monogram, going through multiple rounds of communication with the design team. We wanted to preserve the essence of the original one, which represents the brand’s history, craftsmanship, and heritage. The evolved and upgraded logo looks more modern and elegant, and we’ve added a graphic element. And the monogram symbolizes the flow of light and shadow, which is also a signature feature of Hearts On Fire’s diamond products.
Diamonds used to be serious, but we want the upgraded Hearts On Fire to be more fun. Through the logo & monogram, we want to convey that Hearts On Fire is genuine, fun, modern, and also high-end and mature.
Hearts On Fire Graphic Logo & Monogram
Luxe.CO: From a design perspective, what does a diamond represent? What message does it convey?
Yunjo Lee: The brilliance of diamonds inspires me to create jewelry and shapes the brand’s personality. Diamonds are the world’s oldest gemstones, symbolizing beauty and strength.
I have worked with diamonds throughout my career. Based on my personal experience, I believe Hearts On Fire diamonds have exquisite cutting and incredible craftsmanship, which allows me to see the brilliant light effects. It has an ethereal beauty that gives me a sense of empowerment, confidence, joy, and optimism.
When it comes to infusing modernity into jewelry, women are absolutely central. The strong female figures around me and their lifestyles always inspire me. We want women to experience our jewelry every day, every moment, so we aim to bring an element of “effortlessness” to our products, making them more casual.
In designing, I want to ensure that you can instantly recognize Hearts On Fire products and distinguish them from others. Additionally, we have the iconic cutting technique and exquisite craftsmanship. I often say this is like our “magic,” something other brands don’t have.
BARRE Collection Diamond Necklace
BARRE Collection Diamond Ear Cuff
Luxe.CO: What are the key features of the newly released BARRE jewelry collection?
Yunjo Lee: I’ve always been fascinated by the vibrant energy of cities—the inspiration for BARRE comes from the continuous rhythm of urban life.
Cities are places for dreamers. In a city, you always feel invigorated and ambitious, as if nothing is impossible. I’m very interested in the intangible aspects of cities and have collected many visual elements related to spirit and strength. I observe contemporary architecture, study staircases, and listen to jazz music.
In the BARRE collection, we combined gold with “floating” diamonds. I’ve never liked the idea of fully integrating gold and diamonds together, and given the intriguing contrasts found in cities, I decided to present them side by side. This is the design language of the BARRE collection.
There is a strong connection between cities and women; modern urban women are “rule-breakers.” We liberated the iconic diamonds from their metal settings. Instead of embedding diamonds within the gold, we placed them on the outside of the “bars.” I call this “diamond liberation.”
In our products, we also wanted to convey a sense of rhythm, akin to jazz beats, symbolizing the pulse of life. Therefore, we arranged diamonds of different sizes in a staggered manner. I sketched many drafts to find the right feeling, ultimately creating the entire product series.
When you look at each piece individually, regardless of its size, you will always see the combination of gold and “floating” diamonds. This is something very unique.
Moreover, this is the first time in Hearts On Fire’s history that gold is used as a “coloring” backdrop, not just as a material complementing the diamonds. Gold is as important as diamonds, and they complement each other. This allowed us to express the brilliance of diamonds in a more “relaxed” and casual manner.
Luxe.CO: As a jewelry designer, how do you gather inspiration?
Yunjo Lee: I currently live in the countryside, in a place that was once the home of the famous photographer Edward J. Steichen. I worked in New York for over 20 years and studied painting at the Pratt Institute—art is a significant part of my life, and cities have always been a source of inspiration.
As an art enthusiast, I used to visit the Venice Biennial and the Kassel Documenta in Germany every two years. In my spare time, I spend a lot of time visiting museums and art galleries and reading books on art.
When designing jewelry, my approach differs from traditional jewelry design professionals. I tend to be more conceptual and place great emphasis on materials. I carry a large sketchbook with me, where I often draw abstract geometric lines, some of which eventually become jewelry pieces. Sometimes I sketch 3D objects and imagine how they would look—sketches help establish a visual dialogue; I also collect images and paintings regularly.
This is evident in the BARRE collection: for instance, in the bracelet, you won’t see any clasps. Achieving this “seamless” aesthetic and quality is a “superpower” unique to our brand. We spent a lot of time working closely with the craftsmen to meticulously implement every product detail.
In the design process, we start with sketches, incorporate technical expertise, and there’s also a significant “handcrafted” component—this working process is more unique than anything I’ve seen in any other jewelry company.
Luxe.CO: What insights do you have about Chinese consumers?
Rita Maltez: The luxury market in the Chinese Mainland is currently challenging, but some brands are still thriving due to their high-quality products and uniqueness.
I’ve noticed that Chinese consumers are very meticulous in their product choices. After conducting research, we found that consumers still value diamond quality and craftsmanship, but they now pay more attention to design and experience, seeking more wearable jewelry. This gives us some confidence.
Diamond technology is one of our core values—for example, in the BARRE collection, the diamonds are “suspended” but securely set, allowing for better light penetration and making the diamonds appear brighter; in another product line, we use French pavé setting. This technique is mostly used in high-end jewelry and involves manually arranging each “V-cut” small diamond.
We already have the quality and craftsmanship, so we’re focusing on “other things”—how to meet consumer needs.
VELA Collection Bracelet and Ring
Luxe.CO: What are Hearts On Fire’s future plans for channels and products?
Rita Maltez: One important thing I’ve learned from my colleagues in China is “don’t rush, but act quickly.”
We already have preliminary store plans and recently opened our first store in Central, Hong Kong. It’s a 100-square-meter street-front store designed with neutral tones, complemented by the brand’s signature red color.
Hearts On Fire Hong Kong Store Interior
Traditionally, diamonds have a sense of distance for many people. We want to create an open and friendly atmosphere in our stores, encouraging people to explore the products with enthusiasm.
Online, we are about to launch on Tmall Luxury Pavilion. Offline, within the next two years, we plan to open boutiques in the Chinese Mainland. The Chinese market is the fastest-growing market for Hearts On Fire and the one we value the most, with the U.S. being the second. In the U.S., we will first upgrade our jeweler locations, gradually enhancing the customer experience.
Our future goal is that when people think of a representative brand for modern diamond jewelry, they will think of Hearts On Fire. We may be the only brand in this price range.
Yunjo Lee: Hearts On Fire is a bold, modern, and extraordinary jewelry brand. In the future, we will showcase a diverse range of products under a unified design language. Each collection will have different angles, different stories, and will use different techniques and diamonds of varying sizes to present the designs.
| Image Credit: Provided by the brand; Official brand social media
| Editor: Elisa
