Chinese fashion companies acquiring overseas brands is becoming the norm. However, after acquisitions, how can they help these brands successfully rejuvenate in the Chinese Mainland and global markets? This remains a significant challenge.
One of the latest examples is the acquisition of the British contemporary luxury fashion brand KENT & CURWEN in April 2023 by BIEM.L.FDLKK, a leading Chinese golf apparel enterprise.
On December 26, KENT & CURWEN opened a new boutique at The Venetian Macao. In an exclusive exchange with Luxe.CO, the KENT & CURWEN brand team shared key insights behind the brand’s global revitalization strategy. They emphasized to Luxe.CO: “The group will not transform KENT & CURWEN into a localized Chinese brand.”
- What was BIEM.L.FDLKK’s first significant move after the acquisition?
- Why was the new store opened at the luxury landmark Venetian Macao?
- What are the key strategies for revitalizing KENT & CURWEN’s nearly century-old brand heritage?
What Was BIEM.L.FDLKK’s First Major Move After the Acquisition?
Founded in 1926 by London Savile Row tie-maker Eric Kent and seamstress Dorothy Curwen, KENT & CURWEN launched its first product in its founding year—a British regimental striped tie custom-made for prestigious institutions such as Oxford University, Cambridge University, and Eton College. This positioned the brand as a tie supplier for London’s elite clubs and top academic institutions, establishing deep ties with British higher education.
In 1932, KENT & CURWEN acquired a knitwear factory in London and introduced its first striped V-neck cricket sweater. This sweater popularized the “preppy collegiate style” in British sports fashion and gradually established the brand’s global influence.
For instance, KENT & CURWEN became the uniform supplier for the Hollywood Cricket Club in 1933 and Wimbledon in 1990.
Today, KENT & CURWEN’s enduring Richard I-inspired three lions crest and English royal rose emblem, adopted by England’s national football and rugby teams, are globally recognized.
The brand’s heritage reflects its deep-rooted British DNA, bolstered by endorsements from royalty and celebrities such as Princess Diana and David Beckham. Beckham not only supported the brand but also actively participated in product design and brand promotion, further reinforcing KENT & CURWEN’s image as a pioneer of collegiate style.
In discussions with the KENT & CURWEN team, we learned that BIEM.L.FDLKK’s first major move after acquiring the brand was establishing a creative center in Paris in 2023. They invited luxury industry veteran Daniel Kearns, who had previously worked with KENT & CURWEN, to return as Chief Creative Director. Kearns unveiled the brand’s revamped collection at London Fashion Week in September.
Daniel Kearns holds a master’s degree in menswear design from the Royal College of Art. He has worked as a menswear designer at brands such as John Galliano and Emanuel Ungaro and joined Alexander McQueen in 2005 as Design Director, working closely with founder Lee Alexander McQueen. Kearns has also consulted for several leading luxury brands, accumulating extensive experience in menswear design.
In the new collection, Kearns presented KENT & CURWEN’s interpretation of modern collegiate style through innovative and rule-breaking designs:
“Ties worn around the waist, sports-inspired tennis attire layered under formal trench coats…” Today, vintage athletic styles and collegiate uniforms have become a way for young people to express their individuality.
In Kearns’ view, the concept of uniforms embodies a paradox: on one hand, it reflects a desire among young people for cultural identity and community belonging; on the other, it serves as a declaration of personal style rather than conformity.
This interpretation underscores KENT & CURWEN’s differentiated advantage in menswear. With support from its new parent company, BIEM.L.FDLKK, the brand will further consolidate its position as a pioneer of collegiate style.
Established in 2003, BIEM.L.FDLKK has grown into a leading golf apparel enterprise in the Chinese Mainland. The company owns brands such as BIEM.L.FDLKK, BIEM.L.FDLKK Golf, Venetian Carnival, as well as the newly acquired international brands Cerruti 1881 and KENT & CURWEN.
In October 2023, BIEM.L.FDLKK released its third-quarter financial report, announcing plans to invest in building a fashion industry headquarters in Guangzhou’s Panyu District. The project will include facilities such as an international fashion headquarters, an international fashion release center, a high-end fabric R&D center, an intelligent sample room, a testing center, a small intelligent production workshop (specializing in T-shirts), a brand museum, a livestreaming and new retail operations center, and an employee fitness center. The construction will be completed in phases over 8–10 years.
China’s advantages in the apparel and textile supply chain are indisputable. With support from BIEM.L.FDLKK, KENT & CURWEN’s Paris design studio will benefit from streamlined production processes, premium fabric resources, and advanced craftsmanship, enabling it to efficiently translate creative concepts into high-quality products.
Additionally, for many international brands, deeply understanding the demands of the Chinese market, including Chinese body types and consumer preferences, is often a critical challenge in expanding their market share. For KENT & CURWEN, BIEM.L.FDLKK’s acquisition ensures the brand can truly “see” and design for the Chinese market, while maintaining China as a strategic priority and core driver of its future development.
Why Was the New Store Opened at the Luxury Landmark Venetian Macao?
In discussions with Luxe.CO, the KENT & CURWEN brand team emphasized, “BIEM.L.FDLKK will not transform KENT & CURWEN into a localized Chinese brand.”
Under this guiding principle, it becomes clear why KENT & CURWEN chose to open its latest store in the luxury consumption landmark of the Asia-Pacific region—the Venetian Macao.
The interior design of the KENT & CURWEN boutique at the Venetian Macao prominently features handcrafted blue ceramic tiles, symbolizing British royal elegance, complemented by classic white stone. These elements are adorned with the brand’s signature English red rose and three lions crest, underscoring the brand’s deep British cultural heritage.
Globally, no market pays as much attention to the construction and investment in retail channels as China, a highly competitive and rapidly growing market.
Significantly, this store is the first iconic new boutique since the acquisition was completed. It serves as a key pilot project for the brand’s strategy to use China as the starting point for expansion across the Asia-Pacific region and the eventual restart of its global growth ambitions.
According to official data from the Macao SAR government, the tourism market in Macao is set for a strong recovery in 2024, with annual visitor numbers expected to surpass 33 million.
The Venetian Macao shopping center, opened in 2007, is the largest indoor shopping mall in Macao, housing 360 boutiques from top global luxury brands. According to Luxe. CO’s tracking data, since November this year alone, brands such as Italian luxury jewelry label Pomellato, New York-based custom jewelry and watch brand Jacob & Co., and Italian luxury streetwear shoe brand P448 have opened stores in the mall.
As a renowned shopping destination for international tourists, this location offers an unparalleled opportunity for KENT & CURWEN to gain visibility.
Regarding this, the owner of the Venetian shopping center told Luxe.CO, “The strong performance of neighboring luxury brands can drive a wave of consumer enthusiasm across the shopping district. KENT & CURWEN’s entry further enriches the mall’s brand portfolio, offering consumers a more comprehensive shopping experience.”
What Are the Key Strategies for Revitalizing KENT & CURWEN’s Nearly Century-Old Brand Heritage?
Looking ahead, KENT & CURWEN plans to accelerate its offline expansion in China, focusing on top-tier and major first-tier cities such as Beijing, Shanghai, Shenzhen, Guangzhou, and Chengdu. The strategy includes opening flagship stores in high-end shopping centers and actively exploring overseas markets while building a global online and offline channel network.
On April 4, 2023, BIEM.L.FDLKK announced it would indirectly acquire the global trademark rights of KENT & CURWEN for €38 million (approximately RMB 290 million/USD 41 million). Specifically, a controlled subsidiary, HODEZAIWU, which BIEM.L.FDLKK holds a 99.86% stake in, invested €38 million through YINGFENGZERUN to acquire a 100% stake in KENT & CURWEN Singapore from Li & Fung Services Holdings, thereby indirectly obtaining the global trademark rights of KENT & CURWEN.
Following the acquisition announcement, BIEM.L.FDLKK’s stock price rose by over 6% in one day, reflecting the capital market’s optimistic outlook on its ambitions to develop an international multi-brand portfolio.
It is worth noting that the acquisition occurred during a challenging period. In recent years, China’s market growth trajectory has shifted from rapid expansion to a more stable phase.
At this juncture, how can the brand revitalize itself to align with the evolving mindset of consumers?
The KENT & CURWEN brand team candidly revealed to Luxe.CO that before its acquisition by BIEM.L.FDLKK, the brand faced two major product-related challenges in the Chinese market:
- Conservative Design Style: The brand’s style relied too heavily on traditional British collegiate aesthetics, lacking modern elements that resonate with younger consumers.
- Limited Product Lines: The brand focused exclusively on menswear, failing to cater to female consumers and a broader demographic. This limited its competitiveness in the market.
KENT & CURWEN’s current price range of RMB 2,000–15,000 (approximately USD 280–2,070) places it in the accessible luxury segment, which continues to demonstrate strong potential in the Chinese market. In recent years, leading brands in this segment have reported impressive sales performance.
At the Spring/Summer 2025 London Fashion Week, when KENT & CURWEN returns to the runway, the brand will showcase significant efforts to address these prior challenges. A key highlight will be the debut of its first-ever womenswear collection.
A major highlight of the runway show was the release of KENT & CURWEN’s first-ever womenswear collection.
The launch of the womenswear line marks a proactive evolution by the brand, aligning with global fashion market trends. The growing influence of gender-neutral and cross-gender fashion has become deeply embedded in contemporary fashion and cultural expression.
This addition not only fills a gap in KENT & CURWEN’s product line but also strengthens its overall image as a British lifestyle brand through a more comprehensive product portfolio. By reaching a broader audience, the brand aims to expand its influence and increase its market share.
Additionally, Creative Director Daniel Kearns incorporated the “castle” motif, drawn from the brand’s archives, throughout the collection.
In his interpretation, the castle element originates from a 17th-century British proverb: “King of one’s own castle.” The phrase originally referred to the idea of living freely within one’s domain, unimpeded by external influences.
Today, it symbolizes a spirit admired by young people and represents the brand’s blessing for them. As young individuals graduate from school and step into society, the castle serves as a metaphor for taking control of their own lives, becoming the “king” of their personal worlds. At the same time, it reflects their pursuit of recognition and belonging across different cultures and communities.
Conclusion
One can tell that KENT & CURWEN is poised for a comprehensive brand transformation, encompassing key areas such as brand positioning, product style, design innovation, marketing strategy, channel optimization, and in-depth operational refinement.
The brand is also expected to become a new growth driver for BIEM.L.FDLKK, injecting global operational experience and fashion energy into the group. This will further enrich BIEM.L.FDLKK’s diversified brand portfolio, facilitate its exploration of international markets, and enhance its positioning in the premium segment.
| Image Credit: KENT & CURWEN
| Editor: Elisa
