Each year, Diptyque’s Global CEO Laurence Semichon sets aside about a week for an in-depth visit to the Chinese Mainland market, where she engages with local teams, clients, and young consumers.
Most recently, on the eve of the opening of Diptyque’s exhibition UN AIR DE PARIS in Shanghai, Laurence Semichon once again visited the city and sat down for an exclusive interview with Luxe.CO. She emphasized, “China is one of the most dynamic markets in the global fragrance sector. What we hold in our hands is gold—the key lies in how we make it shine.”
This exhibition marks Diptyque’s largest-scale showcase since entering the Chinese Mainland market in 2015. Through 11 independent yet connected exhibition rooms, the brand presents an immersive narrative of its legacy and the “Spirit of Paris,” vividly illustrating how a luxury lifestyle brand with over 60 years of history connects with the human spirit and stirs emotional resonance.
Note: Laurence Semichon joined Diptyque in September 2019 as Senior Vice President of Fragrance and Beauty, overseeing product development and innovation. She was promoted to Senior Vice President of the brand in 2022 and appointed Global CEO in 2024.
Prior to Diptyque, Laurence Semichon spent 20 years at LVMH, including eight years as Director of Fragrances at Louis Vuitton, where she played a key role in establishing and launching the brand’s fragrance division. Earlier in her career, she held several leadership positions at Givenchy Parfums.
A Human-Centered Philosophy for Exhibitions
Just as the art of fragrance goes beyond scent, it is a multisensory immersive journey and a deeply personal form of self-expression. Brand exhibitions today are moving away from grand, overarching narratives toward more intimate, emotional engagements that connect with individuals through detail and nuance.
Upon entering Diptyque’s limited-time experiential space UN AIR DE PARIS, visitors journey through 11 unique yet interconnected rooms, each contributing to a cohesive sensory story. Which space leaves the strongest impression? That depends on the individual—each visitor departs with their own unique experience.
“We don’t want visitors to feel aesthetic fatigue. We want them to let go of their thoughts for a moment and let their imaginations wander freely. There’s no correct answer here, only personal feeling,” explained Laurence Semichon. “This is not an authoritative, top-down exhibition. It’s designed on a human scale, to speak to the heart and awaken emotional resonance.”
During the interview, Semichon especially recommended the entrance gallery titled Heritage Gallery.
This room displays three of Diptyque’s earliest scented candles, first released in 1963, along with original archives, handwritten manuscripts, and sketches being shown in China for the first time. A digital video illustrates the brand’s deep-rooted connection to the art of diptychs (two-panel images), the symbolic oval logo as a “window of imagination,” and the dynamic “dancing letters” that resemble a secret code—all reflecting the creative essence that began at Diptyque’s first boutique at 34 Boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris. Founded in 1961 by three like-minded friends from the Left Bank art scene, painter Desmond Knox-Leet, interior designer Christiane Montadre-Gautrot, and theater set designer Yves Coueslant, the boutique was conceived as a marketplace of curiosities.
“Very few people truly understand Diptyque’s origins. That’s why I strongly encourage visitors to spend more time here,” said Semichon. In speaking about the brand’s identity, she emphasized, “Diptyque is not just a fragrance brand. It’s a brand of artistic lifestyle.”
More than 60 years ago, that first Paris boutique was filled with objects the founders collected from their global travels, which included crafts and rare treasures. More than six decades later, in Shanghai, Diptyque continues this tradition with an ever-evolving range of artistic décor, flower vases, stationery, and even whimsical items like felted candle dolls, enriching the brand’s creative language beyond candles and perfumes.
“Diptyque’s creative expression is not a reproduction of reality but a poetic journey between the real and the imaginary.” For this exhibition, the brand invested heavily in recreating iconic elements of its Parisian roots within the Shikumen architecture of Zhangyuan in Shanghai: a newspaper kiosk encountered at a street corner, elegant swans gliding through a garden pond, the outline of Haussmannian rooftops on the skyline, and a vintage clock set to Paris time.
Semichon describes Diptyque’s aesthetic as “the beauty of poetry,” inspired by three main sources: nature, art, and travel.
- In the “Wonders of Nature Room,” visitors can engage in botanical printmaking, leaving behind imprints of nature; in the “Botanical Coffee Bar,” a wall-to-ceiling installation of fragrant plants creates a refined lesson in plant aesthetics.
- In the “Artisanal Workshop,” visual and auditory installations highlight the intricate craftsmanship behind wax and glassmaking.
- Step into the “Perfumer-Artist’s Atelier,” where original illustrations by Desmond Knox-Leet transport visitors to a Mediterranean landscape of olive trees and rocky cliffs, a humid and dreamlike vision of Asia, or an Italian garden surrounded by water.
This multisensory poetic journey reinforces Diptyque’s distinct positioning as a luxury lifestyle brand.
“We hope to reaffirm the brand’s heritage,” said Semichon, “but even more, we hope that when people leave, they will say: ‘That was a beautiful experience and I’m leaving with so much inspiration.'” As she has observed, “Diptyque’s customer base transcends borders and generations. They discover each other through deeply personal aesthetics, forming a unique emotional community. This bond is something that few other brands can replicate.”
The Unchanging Principles Amid Upheaval in the Global Fragrance Industry
The global fragrance market is currently undergoing its most profound transformation in the past two decades. In her interview with Luxe.CO, Laurence Semichon, Global CEO of Diptyque, shared three major trends shaping the industry:
- On the consumer front: Tastes are becoming increasingly refined, and fragrance has become an indispensable part of daily life. The younger generation displays a keen, professional-level appreciation for scent and is willing to invest significantly in high-end fragrances.
- In terms of competition: Emerging markets such as the Chinese Mainland and South Korea are giving rise to a wave of new brands, continuously reshaping the industry landscape.
- Regarding evolving demand: Fragrances are no longer merely symbols of status or consumption, but are increasingly seen as carriers of emotional expression, identity, and lifestyle rituals.
In the face of these changes, Diptyque’s brand strategy remains strikingly pure: “The market may evolve, but we need only remain true to ourselves.” Laurence Semichon firmly believes that “discerning consumers can sense whether a brand’s efforts are truly sincere.”
This conviction stands out all the more as luxury houses like Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga enter the fragrance arena.
Semichon views this as “healthy competition”: “Any initiative that advances the industry and enhances public understanding of fragrance is positive, and we welcome it,” she said. She noted that market upgrades have actually nurtured more sophisticated and personalized olfactory preferences—something that creates opportunities for brands that remain committed to originality.
Looking back on Diptyque’s decade in the Chinese Mainland, iconic scents such as Philosykos, Tam Dao, and Do Son have become familiar names, helping introduce Chinese consumers to the world of niche fragrance brands. Beyond the scents themselves, the brand’s signature black-and-white minimalist packaging has also left a strong and lasting impression.
“Highly recognizable product concepts” are at the core of Diptyque’s competitive edge. This foundation has given the brand the confidence to adhere to its “unchanging principles” amid a rapidly shifting global landscape. “Our uniqueness is hard to replicate,” said Semichon proudly. “This isn’t about being better or worse. It’s simply about staying true to what we believe is right.”
China Strategy – From the “Spirit of Paris” to Local Resonance
“For us, China is a large and mature market. Both its consumer potential and distribution network are well-established,” said Laurence Semichon, describing the Chinese market’s significance within Diptyque’s global footprint.
So, how does a French-born luxury lifestyle brand like Diptyque transform what Semichon calls the “Spirit of Paris,” that creative energy and soul rooted in Paris, into experiences that generate “local resonance” in this key market?
First, on the product side, Diptyque does not blindly cater to local preferences through collaborations. In 2024, the brand launched a Lunar New Year limited edition of its Paper Eau de Toilette in collaboration with Chinese calligraphy artist He Ao. Using Western fragrance ingredients, the scent reinterprets the Eastern concept of “paper and ink aroma,” aiming to bridge Chinese and Western cultures through scent. “This wasn’t designed specifically for China,” Semichon explained, “but it was the result of deep dialogue between our global and Chinese teams.”
Second, in terms of experience, the brand explores multiple touchpoints, including exhibitions, workshops, and retail spaces, for creative collisions. For example, the exhibition’s signature “Parisian Viewfinder” filter sparked viral interest on social media. Diptyque’s iconic oval emblem became a creative window for users to capture moments of inspiration from everyday life. “We especially value the sparks of creativity our fans bring us,” said Semichon. “This filter showed us just how imaginative our Chinese audience can be.”
Most critically, Semichon repeatedly emphasized the principle of “deliberate and gradual” retail expansion. In both her 2024 and recent interviews, she clearly stated: “Our expansion will be thoughtful and cautious.”
Since 2025, even as many international luxury brands scaled back and refocused on Tier 1 cities in the Chinese Mainland, Diptyque continued to open stores in cities like Wuhan and Hefei—but always with a careful approach. “We only choose locations that align with the brand spirit, reach our target audience, and offer ideal positioning.”
Looking ahead, following successful implementations in Paris and London, Diptyque is preparing to introduce its new retail concept “La Maison Diptyque” to Shanghai. Through this “poetic house” in physical form, the brand aims to build ongoing dialogue with consumers, offer diverse forms of expression, and deepen local resonance.
A “Philosophy of Surprise” and Long-Termism: The Core of Brand Vitality
“No formula is perfect when it comes to predicting market reactions. The subjectivity and individuality of fragrance preferences are what make this industry so enchanting. Even after over 20 years in the business, I am still amazed by every surprise that comes along. That sense of freshness keeps me energized and excited,” said Laurence Semichon. She believes that the charm of the fragrance industry lies precisely in its unpredictability.
This “philosophy of surprise” also guides Diptyque’s long-term innovation direction—not relying on technology to forecast the market but instead trusting creativity to spark delight. “If a company becomes stagnant, its team will lose passion. That’s exactly why our team remains consistently creative and enthusiastic.”
Long-termism is also deeply embedded in Diptyque’s cultural outreach. In February this year, the Diptyque Foundation was officially established, with a five-year roadmap that focuses on three main goals: preserving botanical heritage, promoting artistic research, and strengthening the bond between humans and nature. These priorities align well with the values of the younger Chinese generation, emphasizing sustainability and a return to nature.
“Whether through fragrance specimen galleries, artist collaborations, or educational programs, we hope to inspire young people to rediscover the beauty, fragility, and richness of nature in a poetic way,” Semichon added.
After ten years of deep cultivation in the Chinese Mainland, Diptyque’s growth trajectory reveals the long-term wisdom of a luxury lifestyle brand: rooting itself in heritage, using the language of poetic beauty, and finding balance between staying true to its brand DNA and fostering local resonance. As Laurence Semichon put it, “Commercial success comes from precise thinking. Our goal is not sales, but resonance.” In today’s fast-changing global market, this kind of conviction has become the most sustainable form of competitive edge.
| Image Credit: Courtesy of Diptyque, Diptyque Weibo, and Xiaohongshu official account
| Editor: LeZhi