High jewelry has become the most resilient core category in the “hard luxury” segment, recognized across the industry. Globally, branded jewelry is steadily gaining market share.
Recently, Chow Tai Fook Jewellery, the highest-grossing jewelry brand in China, officially launched its first high jewelry collection.
“For a long time, the jewelry market has been dominated by Western brands, with limited representation of Eastern aesthetics… We are now ready to present our craftsmanship and bold vision for high jewelry to the global luxury market,” emphasized Sonia Cheng, fourth-generation heir of the Chow Tai Fook family and Vice-Chairman of Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group, in an exclusive interview with Luxe.CO.
In the interview, she shares why Chow Tai Fook is making this move now and the strategic thinking and strengths behind the launch.
The brand will soon host a global debut in Hangzhou for its new high jewelry collection: Timeless Harmony.
Why Is Chow Tai Fook Investing in High Jewelry Now?
“For decades, we’ve been offering high jewelry exclusively to seasoned collectors—very privately and discreetly. Many people still don’t know that we have such capabilities and craftsmanship,” Sonia Cheng explained.
Back in 1972, her grandfather Cheng Yu Tung pioneered the introduction of 99.99% pure gold (four nines fine), setting the standard for gold jewelry purity in China.
Chow Tai Fook has long had a presence in the diamond and jewelry business. As early as 1973, when the domestic diamond market was still in its infancy, the company acquired a De Beers sightholder license in South Africa. It became the first Chinese-owned diamond manufacturer in the country, and the largest diamond processing factory there, gaining the rights to directly source rough diamonds.
In 2009, Chow Tai Fook also became a Select Diamantaire of Rio Tinto, another leading global diamond miner.
To this day, most diamond sources are still controlled by Western brands. Chow Tai Fook remains the first and only Chinese jewelry brand with access to its own mine, and one of the very few sightholders among the three major global suppliers.
“Original design, superb craftsmanship, and access to rare gemstones. These are our core strengths in launching a high jewelry collection,” said Cheng. “We believe this debut marks a defining moment in our nearly 100-year legacy.”
Above: The “Timeless Harmony” high jewelry collection
Luxe.CO: On a personal level, what message do you hope this high jewelry collection sends to the industry?
Sonia Cheng: Chow Tai Fook was founded by my great-great-grandfather and brought to prominence by my grandfather. When he expanded the brand’s footprint, he carried with him a vision of establishing Chow Tai Fook as a global leader in the jewelry industry. Today, we are one of the world’s most prominent jewelry houses, and throughout his life, my grandfather was devoted to bringing traditional Chinese craftsmanship to the world stage.
For me, this launch is not only a business decision, but one of deep personal significance—it carries forward my grandfather’s legacy. But more importantly, we want to showcase the talent of Chinese artists and artisans to the world.
Through jewelry, we are making a bold statement: our craftsmanship is exceptional and in no way inferior to others.
“To show the world the beauty of China through jewelry” is not only the essence of this collection but the core of Chow Tai Fook’s identity, and my grandfather’s lifelong dream.
Pictured above: The “CTF Pink Star,” formerly known as the “Pink Star,” is a 59.60-carat oval internally flawless fancy vivid pink diamond—the largest of its kind ever graded by GIA. A true treasure of nature.
Another Milestone in Chow Tai Fook’s Brand Transformation—Led by High Jewelry
As Chow Tai Fook Jewellery approaches its centennial, the brand embarked on a formal transformation journey in 2024.
“The launch of our high jewelry collection marks a pivotal moment in this transformation,” said Sonia Cheng.
With 96 years of history, Chow Tai Fook has witnessed the rise of China’s jewelry market and grown into the country’s largest jewelry enterprise. Today, the brand operates more than 6,500 retail points globally. In Deloitte’s Global Powers of Luxury Goods 2023 report, Chow Tai Fook ranked seventh, standing as the only Chinese jewelry brand among the top ten.
This transformation focuses on enhancing customer experience through new concept stores, offering differentiated and design-forward products, and fostering deeper emotional connections through strategic collaborations.
Over the past year, new concept stores were unveiled in Hong Kong, Shenzhen, Wuhan, Xi’an, and Shanghai. Product-wise, Chow Tai Fook launched the popular “Chuanfu” and “Chuanxi” collections and even introduced pet jewelry. On the collaboration front, the brand has partnered with the Palace Museum in Beijing, the hit game Black Myth: Wukong, the beloved Chiikawa IP, and fashion label CLOT.
Above: Chow Tai Fook’s new concept store
The move into high jewelry signals Chow Tai Fook’s ambition to elevate its brand and stand alongside global luxury houses, all while embracing its role as a national enterprise stepping onto the world stage.
From an industry-wide perspective, high jewelry has demonstrated exceptional resilience amid economic fluctuations. According to Bain & Company’s 2024 global luxury market report, jewelry remains the most resilient core luxury category, with sales expected to grow 0–2% year-on-year to €31 billion. High jewelry significantly outperformed regular jewelry.
“Even in the face of global economic headwinds in recent years, we’ve seen encouraging and robust growth in high jewelry,” said Cheng. “This tells us that the most discerning clients are still drawn to these pieces, making now the perfect moment for Chow Tai Fook to launch our own high jewelry line.”
How Will Chow Tai Fook Define Its First High Jewelry Collection?
“As a Chinese brand on the global stage, our high jewelry will celebrate Chinese culture and tradition,” said Sonia Cheng, describing the key differentiator between Chow Tai Fook and Western luxury houses.
“The market has long been dominated by Western brands, and Eastern aesthetics remain underrepresented,” she observed. “Our mission is to fill that gap. Our high jewelry is aimed squarely at the global luxury market. We’re ready to showcase our craftsmanship and bold creative vision.”
Chow Tai Fook has already proven the market’s appetite for culturally rooted jewelry through its “Heritage” collection, which draws inspiration from symbols, aesthetics, and narratives of various Chinese dynasties, all anchored in traditional goldsmithing techniques.
“The success of the Heritage collection revealed how deeply Chinese consumers resonate with pieces that carry cultural stories and pay tribute to Chinese traditions,” said Cheng. “Especially designs centered on Chinese culture—they foster cultural confidence and national pride.”
She noted that this sentiment is shared by high-net-worth individuals as well: “They’re seeking masterpieces rich in cultural meaning and personal identity.”
Chow Tai Fook has also developed new lines such as “Chuanfu” and “Chuanxi,” which blend Eastern aesthetics with contemporary design. These collections laid the groundwork for the high jewelry launch, which is helmed by Nicholas Lieou, the brand’s Creative Director of High Jewellery and the designer behind those signature lines.
Above: Nicholas Lieou, Creative Director of High Jewellery at Chow Tai Fook
“I believe people have high expectations of Chow Tai Fook, a brand with nearly a century of heritage,” Cheng added. “How do we reinterpret Chinese cultural creativity, craftsmanship, and artistry in a contemporary way? That’s what will excite collectors and high-net-worth clients. What’s truly fascinating is how we’re injecting a modern perspective into Eastern artistry, fusing traditional Chinese aesthetics with innovative design.”
The debut high jewelry collection is titled “Timeless Harmony,” drawing inspiration from Chinese architecture and Eastern philosophy. For instance, the piece Lian Hua Qing Yun (Lotus Serenity) is based on the lotus flower, a symbol of purity and elegance in Chinese culture and a muse for generations of scholars and artists. Other designs include Imperial Grace and Circle and Square, the latter reflecting the Chinese philosophical concept of harmony and stability and echoing the yin-yang worldview of the East.
Above: “Lotus Serenity”
Above: “Circle and Square”
The cultural depth behind each piece reflects Chow Tai Fook’s keen insight into the evolving high jewelry landscape, and its deep understanding of cultural identity and emotional resonance with today’s consumers.
Material-wise, the collection goes far beyond gold. As introduced, Timeless Harmony features a fusion of Eastern and Western materials—world-class diamonds and rare gemstones alongside traditionally Eastern elements like jadeite and 99.99% pure gold, rarely used in high jewelry but thoughtfully incorporated into select pieces.
Luxe.CO: Can you share the craftsmanship and design process behind this high jewelry collection?
Sonia Cheng: The Timeless Harmony collection is led by our Creative Director of High Jewellery, Nicholas Lieou. With a strong global perspective and rich luxury experience, he also possesses a deep understanding of Chinese culture and heritage. He truly knows how to translate that into inspiring jewelry.
We wanted this high jewelry line to cater to the diverse demands of modern lifestyles—pieces that can seamlessly integrate into contemporary living.
Each piece from Timeless Harmony is meticulously crafted over hundreds to thousands of hours in our own High Jewellery Workshop.
Our Master Studio is home to over 400 artisans, including dozens of nationally certified master craftsmen. Every piece is created with care in Hong Kong and Shunde, ensuring that Chinese craftsmanship continues from generation to generation.
Luxe.CO: What’s the retail strategy for this high jewelry collection?
Sonia Cheng: As each piece is a meticulously crafted work of art, Timeless Harmony is currently presented through private viewing salons. We aim to create exclusive appreciation experiences for collectors and high-net-worth clients.
Additionally, selected stores will feature VIP spaces dedicated to high jewelry, offering one-on-one appointments in a discreet, curated setting.
Luxe.CO: Chow Tai Fook has also been upgrading its store image. Can you share more about that?
Sonia Cheng: As part of our brand transformation, we are upgrading our store concepts into more premium and immersive retail spaces. These environments not only showcase our high jewelry but also provide an elevated experience.
For example, our new concept store in Shanghai includes an entire floor designed specifically for high jewelry, where collectors can immerse themselves in the artistry and narrative behind each piece.
Luxe.CO: As more Chinese brands venture into high jewelry, what makes Chow Tai Fook unique?
Sonia Cheng: It’s inevitable that others will try to follow suit, but our 96-year heritage is irreplaceable. Chow Tai Fook is a household name in both Mainland China and Hong Kong. That kind of brand equity cannot be replicated. Others may imitate, but our craftsmanship, legacy, and brand strength are the result of decades of dedication.
More importantly, the trust our customers and collectors place in us is our greatest asset. Chow Tai Fook jewelry is part of many families’ lives. It’s a symbol of love, tradition, and legacy. In nearly every household, there is at least one Chow Tai Fook piece—a precious memory passed down through generations.
At the same time, we never stop innovating. We continue to push boundaries in design, lead industry trends, and meet the evolving expectations of jewelry connoisseurs.
“Let the World See the Beauty of China Through Jewelry”
Chow Tai Fook’s Timeless Harmony high jewelry collection is set to make its global debut in Hangzhou. Sonia Cheng revealed that the brand also plans to take the collection on a worldwide tour in key markets.
In this exclusive interview, Cheng emphasized the brand’s core philosophy: “Showcasing the beauty of China to the world through exquisite jewellery.” This is not only the essence of Chow Tai Fook, but also a shared dream of the family behind the brand—and of countless Chinese families.
“I truly believe this is what resonates most with our collectors and target audience,” she said. “Each high jewelry piece is not only wearable art but also a cultural vessel. When Eastern aesthetics, traditional heritage, and deep storytelling converge, that’s when unique and irreplaceable value emerges.”
This same spirit has guided the brand in other initiatives as well. Recently, Chow Tai Fook collaborated with the Palace Museum in Beijing to launch the Chow Tai Fook Palace Collection, partnered with the Hong Kong Palace Museum on a gold craftsmanship education project, and participated in the “Radiance: The Chinese Story of Jewelry Art” international exhibition tour.
At the Goldstadt Museum in Pforzheim, Germany, known as the “City of Gold,” the brand exhibited two masterpieces that represent the pinnacle of Chinese jewelry artistry: “Splendor of Emerald” and “Argyle Pink Diamond and Jadeite Necklace.”
Now, with the official debut of its first high jewelry collection, Chow Tai Fook once again asserts its role as a national brand carrying a global cultural mission.
As Sonia Cheng once wrote on her personal blog:
“As a Chinese brand standing on the world stage, we have a responsibility to elevate culture through our brand power… The value of high jewelry lies not only in rarity but also in its ability to become a carrier of cultural legacy—one that transcends geography and time.”
| Image Credit: Courtesy of Chow Tai Fook Jewellery
| Editor: Elisa
