“I prefer not to define beauty brands with the term’ luxury,’ but true ‘luxury’ lies in the autonomy to develop your own products. This is precisely the unique advantage of being a family business,” remarked Philippe d’Ornano, second-generation successor and global president of Sisley, during a recent interview with Luxe.CO.
Philippe d’Ornano studied law, economics, and political science before joining Sisley, founded by his parents, Count Hubert d’Ornano and Countess Isabelle d’Ornano, in 1986. Currently serving as Sisley’s global president, Philippe has been instrumental in the brand’s global expansion, establishing several of its Asian subsidiaries and regional offices in Hong Kong, Miami, and Dubai. He is also the co-chairman of France’s METI (Association of Medium-Sized Enterprises) and a board member of the Federation of Beauty Enterprises.
Founded in Paris in 1976, Sisley is one of the earliest international high-end beauty brands to explore the Chinese market. Iconic products like the “Ecological Compound” and “S Cream” have been staples for many young consumers, recalling memories of seeing them on their mothers’ dressing tables.
According to Luxe.CO Intelligence‘s report “Global Luxury Skincare Brands: Insights into the Chinese Market,” Sisley was among the few luxury skincare brands to establish counters and stores in China before 2010, earning it the status of a “first-generation aristocratic brand” in the minds of Chinese premium consumers.
Today, as both China and the global high-end beauty market undergo significant restructuring, this long-standing brand continues to operate like a “startup,” obsessively refining and upgrading its products while exploring breakthroughs in its category portfolio.
In 2019, Sisley launched its high-end haircare line, Hair Rituel by Sisley, which has gained initial market recognition. Its share of Sisley’s total business has grown from 2% to 10%-15%. Philippe has set a clear goal: “To elevate Hair Rituel by Sisley to the same level of industry prominence and influence as Sisley itself within six years.”
As a steward and visionary, Philippe d’Ornano is responsible for making strategic decisions for Sisley, a family-run cosmetics company that operates in over 100 markets and manages 31 subsidiaries worldwide.
China, one of Sisley’s top three markets, is a region Philippe d’Ornano visits annually. In this interview with Luxe.CO, he shared his latest insights into the Chinese market and consumers, as well as updates on Sisley’s development and its future plans.
“Sisley is no longer a single-brand company; we can now be considered a group.”
Following the rise of “ingredient enthusiasts,” cutting-edge technology (“black tech”) is now driving new trends in the global cosmetics market. Consumers’ pursuit of technologically advanced beauty solutions has become not only more specialized and professional but also increasingly segmented and precise. This shift has brought transformation and opportunities to every niche category in the market.
Take the hair care category, which has seen the most significant growth, as an example. Earlier this year, Luxe.CO reviewed 32 investment and acquisition cases in the global hair care market over the past year. Industry participants include major global beauty conglomerates, innovative startups, celebrity-led ventures, and even luxury fashion brands entering the category, collectively propelling the growth of the hair care segment.
Philippe d’Ornano emphasized during the interview that, unlike major cosmetics groups that typically expand their brand portfolios through acquisitions, family-owned companies like Sisley prefer internal brand incubation.
The launch of the Hair Rituel by Sisley brand in 2019, though relatively late to the category, was a milestone for both Sisley and the broader industry. Philippe d’Ornano described it as “the first high-end hair care brand internally incubated by a beauty company.” He noted, “At the time, it shook the market. It was good news for retailers because it opened up an entirely new category with a fresh concept: ‘hair care as skincare.‘”
During the interview with Luxe.CO, Philippe d’Ornano shared the origin story of Hair Rituel. As part of a weekly tradition, he holds product development meetings every Wednesday with his mother, sister, and the R&D team. During one such meeting, the head of product development presented the idea that many botanical active ingredients used in skincare could also benefit the scalp. Furthermore, 90% of consumers showed significant concern for scalp health. This insight sparked Sisley’s exploration of internally incubating the Hair Rituel brand.
Since its inception in 2019, Hair Rituel has grown to account for approximately 10-15% of Sisley’s overall sales, up from just 2% initially. It has also established a solid influence in the global market. According to Luxe.CO statistics, Hair Rituel opened 11 stores and several pop-up shops in China last year, showcasing unparalleled vitality among high-end hair care brands.
“Hair Rituel has given us great confidence, proving that we have the ability to incubate new brands through strong innovation. Sisley is no longer a single-brand company; we can now be considered a group,” Philippe d’Ornano emphasized during the interview.
“I don’t like to define Sisley as a ‘luxury’ brand, but true ‘luxury’ lies in the autonomy to develop your own products.”
Among global high-end beauty brands with annual revenues exceeding 1 billion euros, Sisley is one of the few remaining independent, family-owned companies. In today’s industry, maintaining independence and autonomy is a rare and valuable trait for a family brand.
Philippe d’Ornano proudly described this uniqueness as “true luxury.”
He told Luxe.CO, “I don’t like to define beauty brands as ‘luxury.’ But true luxury is having control over your own company and developing the products you want to make. This is the advantage of being a family-owned business.”
As a representative of French botanical beauty brands established 50 years ago, skincare undoubtedly remains Sisley’s core business and strength.
Innovating classic products is not about following trends.
With its deep expertise in “scientific skincare” formulations and “botanical extraction” ingredients, Sisley has focused on refining its products as its primary goal in recent years. This includes continuous iterations of classic products such as Ecological Compound, Sisleÿa creams, and All Day All Year Essential Protection.
One notable example is the Sisleÿa Global Anti-Age cream, launched in 1999 after ten years of research. This product, the precursor to the renowned Sisleÿa L’Intégral Anti-Âge cream, embodies Sisley’s philosophy of “no constraints on time or cost.”
Philippe d’Ornano recalled that before the product’s launch, the head of R&D expressed concerns to his father, Hubert d’Ornano, the founder of Sisley, that “ten years of work might be wasted because the costs are too high, and it won’t sell.” Hubert d’Ornano replied, “Just do it. He replied, “I hired you to create products, not to worry about costs.” Under this mindset, this groundbreaking anti-aging cream was born, becoming one of the most well-regarded high-end anti-aging creams among consumers.
In addition, Philippe d’Ornano highlighted the potential Sisley sees in its makeup and fragrance categories, which are less familiar to Chinese consumers.
“Our best-selling fragrances in China are very different from those in other markets,” Philippe d’Ornano explained to Luxe.CO. Sisley’s top-selling fragrance in China is Soir de Lune, which was created by his father for his mother.
Meanwhile, in the high-end professional makeup sector, Sisley ranks second in the European and American markets and approximately fifth or sixth in France. The brand is currently expanding its team of makeup artists to better connect with a broader Chinese consumer base.
“Personalized recommendations win trust, not just promoting trendy new releases.”
As high price tags are no longer the sole defining characteristic of high-end beauty brands, truly personalized product recommendations and service experiences have become a crucial challenge for industry players.
“If a brand can provide consumers with genuinely personalized advice, I believe they will trust the brand as much as they trust their own doctors,” Philippe d’Ornano emphasized the importance of tailored recommendations during an interview with Luxe.CO on the topic of strengthening customer loyalty. “Ask about the user’s real needs, use instruments to assess skin conditions, and recommend the most suitable products. This is far more effective than relying on marketing rhetoric to push new releases or best-sellers.”
Philippe d’Ornano also referred to samples as the “best advertisement.” He explained, “… especially for us, where our prices are a little bit higher, is to say, listen, try this product, try the sample, look how you like it, and how you feel about it and whether you like it if you see the result. But if we can genuinely recommend the most suitable products to customers, we’ll earn their trust and reputation.”
Beyond the products themselves, integrated omnichannel strategies have become a top priority for international high-end beauty brands to deepen their presence in the Chinese Mainland market.
Online, Sisley has established a comprehensive presence across social media and e-commerce platforms. These efforts enhance services and experiences for existing customers while continually reaching potential ones.
“Online platforms serve as a medium, opening a window for potential customers to search for and learn about the brand,” Philippe d’Ornano noted, highlighting the importance of digital channels in tapping into opportunities in lower-tier markets.
Currently, Sisley has set up sales channels on platforms like Tmall, JD.com, WeChat Mini Programs, and Douyin. During the recent Double 11 shopping festival, Sisley ranked among Tmall’s top 20 beauty and skincare brands for the entire event cycle. Simultaneously, the brand maintains real-time connections with Chinese consumers through social media platforms such as Xiaohongshu, Douyin, Weibo, and WeChat official accounts. On Xiaohongshu, Luxe.CO found numerous firsthand posts by Sisley employees sharing experiences from company team-building events, training sessions, and even listening to speeches by the CEO.
Offline, brands are fiercely competing to create immersive, luxurious flagship stores, complemented by more private and professional beauty salons and spas that further differentiate their brand and product appeal.
In early 2023, Sisley’s first Maison Sisley in the Asia-Pacific region opened in Zhangyuan, Shanghai, a historical estate known as the “First Garden of the Sea.” This two-story villa with over a century of history not only serves as an immersive showcase of the Sisley brand but also blends French lifestyle with the architectural heritage of Shanghai’s Haipai culture.
Inside, beyond retail spaces displaying the brand’s full range of products, the Maison features an Art Lounge, Secret Coffee, Luxury Beauty Salon, and a Hair Care Zone, with artworks from the D’Ornano family’s collection tastefully arranged throughout to enhance the refined details.
During the interview, Philippe d’Ornano revealed that Sisley is currently scouting locations for a second Maison Sisley in the Chinese Mainland, reflecting the brand’s steady and confident approach to long-term investment in the market.
“I have great confidence in the Chinese beauty market. I visit China every year, and it always leaves me with the impression of being highly efficient and creative. We have significant investments here, and I firmly believe that we can continue to bring many innovative products to China and other markets,” Philippe d’Ornano concluded the interview.
| Image Credit: Sisley
| Editor: Zhu Ruoyu
